Welcome back to “Skincare Deep Dive,” our brand new series on the acne podcast where we explore the science and soul of skincare. Today, we’re diving into a topic that affects millions: acne. But we’re not just talking about the usual creams and cleansers. We’re asking a bigger question: Is the future of acne treatment holistic? Is holistic acne treatment via functional dermatology the way to go?
What is Holistic Acne Treatment?
For years, the conventional approach to acne has often focused on treating the symptoms: reducing inflammation, killing bacteria, and unclogging pores. While these treatments can be effective for many, others find themselves in a frustrating cycle of breakouts, harsh chemicals, and temporary fixes. This is where the idea of holistic acne treatment, often championed by functional dermatology, comes into play. So, what exactly is functional dermatology?
Well, think of it as a more comprehensive and personalized approach to skin health—in conventional definitions, functional medicine aims to identify and address the root causes of human disease, and in the case of dermatology, we are talking about skin issues like acne. They look beyond the spot itself and consider the interconnectedness of the body’s systems.
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When it comes to functional dermatology, it’s not so well-defined in the scientific literature—fundamentally we already have some knowledge about how hormones and the gut microbiome influence skin conditions like acne. But as to whether dietary modifications alone can treat acne, the answer is no. However, the evidence possibly points towards a synergistic role in terms of how lifestyle factors can improve the efficacy of acne management and in terms of overall skin health.
What I am going to focus on is functional dermatology as a holistic approach rather than a boxed-in term. That means, we’re going to regard the skin as a whole, building on the current body of research that points towards the skin as an ecosystem. We’re talking about the skin microclimate, the integrity of the skin barrier, but most specifically when it comes to acne, it’s the microbiome.
Instead of solely focusing on say sebum control, which is the way medications like isotretinoin work, we’re looking at the interplay of factors such as surface hydration which can indirectly affect oil gland activity. For instance a condition known as reactive hyperseborrhea occurs when oily skin is subject to astringent cleansers which dehydrate the skin’s surface. This is why dermatologists always recommend a gentle cleanser for universal skin types, oily skin included. Very often those who suffer from oily-dehydrated skin have been exposed to astringent cleansers and toners which deplete and even damage the skin barrier over time.
Those with dry skin, such as eczema, could also develop acne especially in the teenage years. And because eczema is a genetically determined condition whereby the skin barrier is deficient, it is pertinent to know how to manage acne in such cases. The typical approach of using astringent skincare, even medications like oral isotretinoin would very likely induce a flareup of eczema. In such cases, it is useful to incorporate gentler alternatives such as anti-inflammatory botanical actives which target the root cause of acne holistically. In this episode, I’ll begin by diving right into the causes of acne.
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What are the Causes of Acne?
Acne is one of the most common skin disorders in the world that affects all age and ethnic groups. To illustrate, key pathogenic factors such as the proliferation and colonization of the bacteria P. acnes, increased sebum production and inflammatory mechanisms can all lead to the development of acne. Additionally, factors like genetic history and diet also play significant roles in acne development.
From a functional dermatology perspective, acne isn’t just a skin problem; it’s often a sign that something else is imbalanced within the body. This could involve gut health, hormonal fluctuations, stress levels, inflammation, dietary sensitivities, or even environmental factors. That’s where a truly effective acne treatment plan needs to consider the individual as a whole, i.e. for holistic acne treatment.
Most importantly, functional dermatology doesn’t necessarily dismiss conventional treatments. In many cases, a combination of both approaches can be the most effective. A topical retinoid might still be used to unclog pores, while dietary changes work to reduce overall inflammation from the inside out.
Holistic Acne Treatment via Functional Dermatology
So, what might a holistic acne treatment plan look like in practice? It could involve dietary changes, like reducing processed foods, sugar, and dairy, which are known to be inflammatory for some individuals. It might include targeted supplements to support gut health, balance hormones, or address specific nutrient deficiencies. Stress management techniques like mindfulness or yoga could also be incorporated.
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It’s about finding the right balance for each individual. We might use conventional therapies to address acute breakouts while simultaneously working on the underlying factors to prevent future flares. The goal is long-term skin health, not just a quick fix. Now, it’s important to acknowledge that the field of functional dermatology is still evolving. While there’s growing evidence supporting the link between gut health, diet, and skin conditions, more rigorous research is needed in some areas. It’s also crucial to seek guidance from qualified healthcare professionals who have training in both dermatology and functional medicine principles.
So, is functional dermatology the way to go for holistic acne treatment? It certainly offers a compelling alternative for those who haven’t found lasting relief with conventional methods. By addressing the root causes and taking a personalized, holistic approach, it empowers individuals to take control of their skin health from the inside out.
If you’re struggling with persistent acne and are curious about a more holistic approach, consider researching functional dermatologists in your area. Have an open conversation with your current dermatologist about your interest in exploring these options for holistic acne treatment. Remember, healthy skin is a reflection of overall well-being.
That’s all the time we have for today’s episode. Thank you for joining us. We’ll be back with another insightful discussion on the world of acne and skincare.
Hello and welcome to Skin Deep Dive, a brand new podcast series on The Acne Podcast by me Dr.TWL, and today we’re tackling a topic that floods the aisles and our social media feeds: acne ingredients. If you’ve ever stood bewildered in front of a shelf packed with spot treatments, cleansers, and serums, all promising clear skin, you know the struggle. What acne ingredients actually work? Is natural always better? And what on earth is the difference between Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid?
Today, we’re decoding those labels. We’ll cover the tried-and-true classics, introduce some rising stars making waves, touch on the natural alternatives, and give you some tips on choosing what might be right for you. Ready to dive in?
Traditional Acne Ingredients
Let’s start with the heavy hitters, the acne ingredients most people have heard of. First up: Benzoyl Peroxide, or BPO.
This one’s been a go-to for decades, and for good reason. BPO works primarily by killing the Cutibacterium acnes bacteria – one of the key culprits behind inflamed pimples. It also helps to gently peel the skin, removing dead cells and excess oil. You’ll find it in various concentrations, usually from 2.5% up to 10%.
Pro-Tip: Start low! A 2.5% or 5% concentration can be just as effective as 10% but often with less irritation. The Catch: BPO can be quite drying and irritating for some skin types, especially initially. It’s also famous for bleaching fabrics – so use white towels and pillowcases! You might have also heard some news reports in the past year or so about potential contaminants like benzene found in some BPO products due to stability issues. While regulatory bodies monitor this, it’s a reminder to buy from reputable brands and check for any product safety alerts if you have concerns.
Next up, another classic: Salicylic Acid. This is a Beta Hydroxy Acid, or BHA. What makes Salicylic Acid special is that it’s oil-soluble. This means it can penetrate deeper into pores that are clogged with oil and dead skin cells, exfoliating inside the pore lining.
This makes it particularly effective for blackheads and whiteheads (comedonal acne). It also has some anti-inflammatory properties. Like BPO, it can be drying, so monitor how your skin reacts. You’ll find it in cleansers, toners, serums, and spot treatments, typically around 0.5% to 2% concentration in over-the-counter products.
Okay, let’s move on to some acne ingredients that have gained huge popularity more recently – the rising stars of acne care. First, let’s talk about Niacinamide.
Star Acne Ingredients
Niacinamide, which is a form of Vitamin B3, is a fantastic multi-tasker. It’s primarily known for its anti-inflammatory properties, helping to calm down those red, angry pimples. But it does more! It can help regulate oil production, strengthen your skin barrier (which is crucial when using potentially irritating actives), and even help fade the red or brown marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) left behind after a breakout.
Why the buzz? Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, even by sensitive skin types. It plays nicely with most other acne ingredients, making it easy to incorporate into an existing routine. You’ll often find it in serums at concentrations from 2% to 10%.
Another star acne ingredient gaining traction is Azelaic Acid. This one is derived from grains like barley and wheat. Azelaic acid is a bit of an unsung hero. It tackles acne in several ways: it has antibacterial properties against C. acnes, it’s anti-inflammatory, it helps unclog pores by encouraging cell turnover, and it’s particularly good at reducing redness and fading post-acne marks, similar to niacinamide.
It’s often recommended for those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin who might find other actives too harsh. Over-the-counter products usually contain up to 10%, while prescription versions go higher (15-20%) for more stubborn acne or rosacea. It can cause some initial itching or stinging, but this often subsides.
Natural Acne Ingredients
Now, what about the natural approach? There’s a huge trend towards “clean” and plant-based skincare. So, what natural ingredients show promise for acne?
The most well-known is probably Tea Tree Oil. It has documented natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Some smaller studies suggest it might help with mild to moderate acne, and it’s often positioned as an alternative for those sensitive to BPO. Important Caveat: Tea tree oil is potent! It absolutely must be diluted before applying to the skin, as undiluted essential oils can cause significant irritation or allergic reactions. Look for products formulated with a low, safe concentration (usually under 5%). Remember, “natural” doesn’t automatically mean gentle.
Other acne ingredients like Witch Hazel (often used as an astringent) or Aloe Vera (known for soothing) are common in acne formulations, but typically play more of a supporting role rather than being the primary active ingredient. While potentially beneficial, the scientific evidence for many natural ingredients specifically targeting acne is often less robust than for ingredients like BPO, Salicylic Acid, or retinoids (which we didn’t even get to today!). But that doesn’t mean botanicals don’t work, it just means that most studies so far have focused on these synthetics. Emerging research on botanicals has shown promise, and we’ll be covering these specifically in a subsequent episode.
How do we choose?
Okay, that was a whirlwind tour of some key acne ingredients! So how do you choose?
Consider your acne type: Blackheads and whiteheads? Salicylic Acid might be a good start. Red, inflamed pimples? Azelaic Acid, or Niacinamide could help.
Consider your skin type: Oily skin might tolerate BPO or Salicylic Acid well. Sensitive or dry skin? Niacinamide or Azelaic Acid might be gentler options.
Start low and go slow: Introduce only one new active ingredient at a time. Use it 2-3 times a week initially and see how your skin reacts before increasing frequency.
Patch test: Always test a new product on a small, inconspicuous area first.
Don’t overdo it: Using too many harsh actives can damage your skin barrier, leading to more irritation and potentially worsening acne. Focus on one or two targeted treatments. If you are struggling with acne and sensitive skin, sometimes described as the oily dehydrated skin phenomenon, stay tuned for our next episode where I’ll be covering some latest research we’ve been up to for botanical-based acne care formulations.
Hydrate! Don’t forget a gentle moisturiser (look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides) to support your skin barrier, even if your skin is oily.
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And crucially: If over-the-counter products aren’t cutting it after several weeks, or if your acne is severe or impacting your self-esteem, please consult a board-certified dermatologist. They can provide an accurate diagnosis and discuss prescription options like retinoids, topical or oral antibiotics, or other advanced treatments tailored to you.
That’s all the time we have for today on Skin Deep Dive. I hope this helps you decode those acne ingredient lists with a bit more confidence! Remember, understanding what’s in your products is the first step towards finding what truly works for your unique skin.
Join us next week for our episode “Holistic acne treatment: is functional dermatology the way to go?” as we explore acne ingredients derived from natural sources to the treat the condition. Don’t forget to subscribe wherever you get your podcasts! Until next time, take care of your skin.
Secrets behind the best lip treatment for dry lips: choose the right lipstick base! Dermocosmetics are the gold standard for skincare makeup, combining the best of pharmaceutical benefits with ideal cosmetic effects. The Signature Cosmeceutical Lip Base is now available for bulk purchase for those who wish to try their hand at making their own lipsticks.
In this workshop, we will be covering the following
Why skin on the lips is different
Common skin conditions affecting the lips
Step by Step dermatologist designed lip care protocol
How the right lip product can treat lip dryness and aging
The following is a lip care routine I designed, as part of my work on developing lip cosmeceuticals.
FAQ
How is skin on the lips different from the rest of facial skin?
Delicate part of your facial skin
Distinct type of epithelium
Mucosal area
Fragile, thinner
Readily absorb topicals i.e. systemic absorption into the body
The lips are a delicate part of your facial skin that is distinct because of the type of epithelium that is different from the rest of your facial skin. Because the mucosal area tends to be more delicate, it’s important to understand that mucosal areas often absorb whatever is applied on it – which can lead to absorption into the body system as well.
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Aren’t all lipsticks and lip balms edible? What is the difference with a truly edible lip care product?
No. While the ingredients must pass certain regulatory criteria for safety, there are limits to what is considered toxic, in the sense that small quantities of a chemical can be considered safe—but we know that ingesting chemicals isn’t part of our diet. In contrast an edible formula is always going to be preferable over a merely cosmetic formula . The latter may be safe, but not regarded as an edible.
How can we prevent the signs of lip aging?
The signs of lip aging include the following: wrinkling, dryness, loss of volume and discoloration. A good idea is to plump up your lips with cosmeceuticals that repair the barrier function. Humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid for instance work by drawing water from the deeper layers.
What are the functions of the ideal lip care product?
The perfect lip dermocosmetic should target restoration of elasticity, moisture levels, and natural pinkish hue of healthy, youthful looking lips.
Healthy, youthful looking lips
restoration of elasticity
moisture levels
natural pinkish hue
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polysaccharide mask
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BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS TIP
Part of the comprehensive dry lip treatment products we recommend in our pharmacy is a monitoring device which is the skin hydration analyzer, which is able to measure the ceramide and elastin levels, as well as transepidermal water loss when used over delicate areas such as the lips as well as the eye area.
What are the active ingredients you should look out for in a lip care product?
The following active ingredients are backed by research to deliver the best benefits when it comes to lip care products. Firstly, phytoceramides derived from plant seed oils are effective at replacing and replenishing moisture by literally patching up broken parts of the lip mucosal barrier with lipids. Secondly, I’d look out for grape seed oil, a food derivative used in cosmetic formulations for its potent antioxidant properties. Grape seed oil is actually related to the well-known anti-aging ingredient resveratrol.
What are your top tips on a lip care routine?
Perfecting a routine depends very much on the products you use and also the sequence and technique of application. I wish to highlight the following 3-step routine which is what I personally recommend to my clients:
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS PRODUCT TIP #1
The Barely There Lip Scrub is a proprietary formula containing solid state crystals that gently exfoliate your lips at the same time effectively removing rough and dry skin without irritation. What follows is a smooth moisturising serum, leaving you with soft as the crystals dissolve on contact with mucosal skin, leaving smooth and hydrated lips.
Exfoliate with a lip scrub or a washcloth
Start off with an exfoliating lip scrub. Some lip scrubs available on the market are truly beneficial, these tend to use natural moisturising crystals like sugars which do not irritate delicate mucosal skin but instead dissolve onto the lips while providing a gentle exfoliation effect. Alternatively, you may just use a soft microfibre towel, or cotton pad dampened to gently rub on your lips with Vaseline as a quick way to remove flaky areas without irritating skin.
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS PRODUCT TIP #2
Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals is a leader in the field of dermatologist-formulated lip care products that has been extensively featured in media including Cosmetics Design Asia, for its pioneering approach to skin tone analysis and complementary color analysis for skin of colour. The LipSerum Stick in Gender Neutral Clear is one of our bestselling products in the pharmacy and is highly recommended for lip treatment and prevention of dry, chapped lips, It contains a hydrating phytoceramide formula that prevents lip eczema, also treating discolouration, wrinkles and loss of volume that can be liberally applied to lips several times a day.
Use a neutral or lightly tinted hydrating lip balm or serum in the day before you apply lipcolor
To fully protect your lips, especially if you wear strong lip colors regularly and for long hours, you should hydrate your lips first with a serum before applying the color lipstick. The ideal lipstick should be one that also has hydrating dermocosmetic properties, but in the case that you are using a regular lipstick, it would reduce the drying effects of intensely pigmented lipsticks.
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS PRODUCT TIP #3
The Ultra Intensive Lip Plumper is our best-selling lip plumper that also works as an intensive overnight treatment for dry lips. Fortified with grape seed oil and hyaluronic acid, this delivers a potent anti-aging concoction to your lips everytime you apply it.
DIY a night lip treatment mask
Apply your choice of lip treatment by leaving on your favorite lip balm or plumper overnight. For an added boost of moisture, I would recommend implementing the wet occlusion technique in the form using a wet textile over the plumper. It can be as straightforward as a wet cotton towel or you could use a special material designed to increase absorption, I.e. polysaccharides are a natural plant material known to enhance absorption of topicals.
Final thoughts
This 3-step regimen has been used by my patients who suffer from either aging or dehydrated lips as part of a comprehensive home lip care regimen, starting with exfoliation and emphasis on day time hydration, completed by an intensive overnight leave-on treatment. Where possible, choose skincare makeup. If you suffer from dry lips, It’s also helpful to monitor the hydration levels.
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Did you know that the best foam cleanser for oily skin is one that actually shouldn’t dry out your skin? In this week’s tutorial I’m going to spill the beans on how to harmonize oily skin from the outside in. Download your complimentary worksheet here.
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Top criteria for choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin
Foam texture
Amino acid surfactant OR botanical emulsifier i.e. soy, honey, saponins (plant-derived soaps)
Moisturising actives i.e. glycerin
Low alkalinity
When it comes to my top criteria for choosing a face wash or foam cleanser for oily skin, it boils down to the following. Firstly, one with a foam texture is generally going to leave oily skin feeling cleaner, and is going to be more satisfying from an end-user perspective. However, we know that most surfactants that produce a foam tend to be highly alkaline, thus disrupting the general acidic pH of skin.
For this reason, I recommend choosing a cleanser that is based on an amino acid surfactant OR a botanical emulsifier i.e. soy, honey, saponins (soap-like substance naturally found in plants). It is a bonus if moisturising actives i.e. glycerin can be included in the formulation, as it can repair the skin barrier.
The Science Behind
Choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin isn’t just a matter of the most expensive brand, it’s the formulation that counts. Many drugstore foam cleansers may be easy on the wallet, but the fact is they actually harm the skin barrier.
At puberty onset hormones are secreted
Testosterone causes surge in oil gland activity
Excess oil production when sebaceous glands fail to regulate
The science behind oily skin is fairly straightforward. Oil is actually a natural emollient which helps to strengthen and repair the skin barrier. The trouble is when there is an imbalance between oil secretion and the actual barrier needs of skin—the mismatch occurs when there is faulty signalling. At the onset of puberty, that’s when hormones are secreted.
Specifically, it is testosterone that causes a surge in oil gland activity, this is beneficial in most cases, especially if one suffers from dry skin conditions such as eczema. Many eczema sufferers find their condition improving after puberty. However, the trouble with excess oil production is when sebaceous glands fail to regulate the amount secreted, hence worsening symptoms in those who are already acne-prone.
What causes oily skin?
To better understand how to choose the best foam cleanser for oily skin, we must first examine the root cause.
Why? Largely genetic, can be caused by misuse of products I.e. astringent skincare
As to what causes oily skin, dermatologists generally consider it to be a largely genetic issue. However it is noteworthy that oily skin can also be caused by misuse of skincare products I.e. astringent skincare that contains alcohol, salicylic or alpha hydroxy acids. While many of these actives can be considered therapeutic, daily use of these ingredients in a face wash for instance can cause skin barrier damage.
Why treat oily skin?
Oily skin be embarrassing due to the high-shine appearance of the complexion
Can be a symptom of acne vulgaris and induce comedone formation
Can be uncomfortable i.e sticky sensation in humid climates
Increase inflammation of skin, accelerates inflammaging
Can cause makeup to wear off quickly
Choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin must include a consideration of how effective the formula is for alleviating symptoms.
In my opinion the symptoms of oily skin must always be treated appropriately. For one, symptoms can be highly embarrassing. The high-shine appearance of the complexion for instance isn’t merely a cosmetic concern, it can be inconvenient if it leads to makeup wearing off rapidly, besides being a thoroughly uncomfortable sensation. In addition, oily skin can be a symptom of acne vulgaris and can also induce comedone formation. Those living in humid climates will also find the sticky sensation quite disturbing. A lesser known fact is that excessively oily complexions are prone to increased skin inflammation, thus accelerating the inflammaging process.
Terms to know
Hyperseborrhea
TEWL (Trans-Epidermal Water Loss)
Sebaceous glands
Paradoxical reactive hyperseborrhea
The ideal foam cleanser for oily skin respects all the factors that make up the delicate skin micro-climate.
Some important terms to know when discussing oily skin are the following. Hyperseborrhea refers to a state of excess oil production, and is often associated with acne.
TEWL which stands for Trans-Epidermal Water Loss is the normal evaporative process that occurs due to water loss via the skin barrier, one that is influenced by environmental factors.
Sebaceous glands are the correct medical terminology for oil glands, the glands closely associated with your hair follicles which cover every inch of skin apart from your palms and soles.
Paradoxical reactive hyperseborrhea is the phenomenon of excess oil production that arises from the use of astringent skincare products such as harsh cleansers. When stripped of natural protective oils, the skin barrier feels dehydrated and sends signals to the oil glands, almost as a cry for help. This ultimately leads skin to compensate by producing even more oil.
FAQ How about foam cleansers for combination & dry skin types?
Those with dry skin will do well to avoid chemical surfactant based lathering face washes altogether, instead they should opt for gentle cleansers such as oil-emulsion type face washes. Those with combination skin can reduce the amount of cleanser used over the drier areas such as the cheeks if they find their skin getting dehydrated. The same rules for choosing a cleanser applies.
Wondering which is the best foam cleanser for oily skin? Dermatologists generally recommend cleansers which have low alkalinity, in order to minimize skin barrier damage.
Combi/normal/oily skin:
When is a 2 step only skincare routine possible for daytime routine (skipping makeup removal)?
We are used to hearing about the three-step skincare routine. Cleanse-Tone-Moisturise has been the classic mantra since the 90s—double cleansing became a thing in the last decade or so, though many skincare experts have long advocated the double-cleanse I.e. oil cleansing followed by foam cleansing.
So here’s how to skip the double cleansing step
Even if you wear makeup, it is possible to technically skip the double cleanse. The hack here is to use a microfibre textile that can physically pick up the makeup particles as a way to “attract” the pigment, which results in makeup removal with water as a solvent alone.
Bonus cleansing tip with foam cleanser for oily skin types
The best way to use a foaming cleanser only for one-step cleansing is to pair it with a handheld pore vacuum or a sonic cleansing device. Here’s how you do it, first, apply a sufficient amount of cleanser on damp skin, forehead, nose and chin I.e. the T zone may require special attention for those with combination-oily skin. It is important to choose a dermatologist-recommended gentle cleanser with hydrating properties & antioxidants.
I would generally avoid cleansers with AHAs and BHAs if you have any history of sensitivity, or live in a summer climate. An alternative is to use these only on a weekly basis, definitely not as a daily face wash. Using the device of your choice, glide the pore vacuum/spatula over the entire face, focusing on the oily parts of face with two passes instead of one, and skipping areas that feel dry/irritated
It isn’t just about choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin, the tip here is to correctly pair it with a cleansing device to make the process more efficient.
HOW TO PAIR CLEANSING DEVICES WITH YOUR FOAM CLEANSER
There are 2 main types of sonic cleansing devices: the spatula style which is used in clinics offering the korean medifacial and the silicone brush head which is marketed mainly for home use. I would recommend the spatula style for the following reasons:
Hygiene and ease of use
Less skin irritation on sensitive skin
Choose dual function settings reverse blade models which allow
Cleansing
Infusion
The best practices when choosing cleansing devices for an efficient skincare routine include: the ideal formulation for a face wash or foam cleanser for oily skin, appropriate amounts that are used and also optimisation with cleansing devices.
KEY PRINCIPLE BEHIND FACIAL CLEANSING DEVICES
The most efficient way to compress the double cleansing ritual and in fact make the steps go further for you is to incorporate cleansing devices. Essentially, devices help to physically exfoliate dead skin cells at the same time cleansing skin. Additionally, the pairing of actives such as antioxidants in the cleanser can help regulate the skin microenvironment. Finally, devices using microdermabrasion or hydrodermabrasion technology enhances absorption of the actives via transdermal delivery. For optimal results, choose specifically formulated cleansers like the Miel Honey Cleanser.
Dermatologist’s Top Tip #1: Best Foam Cleanser for Oily Skin
Choose dermatologist-recommended gentle cleanser with hydrating properties & antioxidants
Apply appropriate amount of cleanser on damp skin
Glide the pore vacuum over oily parts of face, skipping areas that feel dry/irritated
Choose dermatologist-recommended gentle cleanser with hydrating properties & antioxidants
Apply appropriate amount of cleanser on damp skin
Glide the pore vacuum over oily parts of face, skipping areas that feel dry/irritated
Dermatologist’s oily skin cleansing tips: how to freshen up quickly
Those with oily skin may wish to avoid blotting papers as this can further dehydrate the skin barrier and worsen paradoxical hyperseborrhea. Instead, facial mists can be used as an on-the-go, quick cleansing step throughout the day. Those with oily skin can also help to regulate their skin microenvironment with the antioxidants and barrier repair actives in hydrating facial mists.
BONUS EXERCISE: CASE STUDY OF IDEAL CLEANSER TO USE WITH PORE VACUUM OR SONIC CLEANSING DEVICE
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Examples of what you will learn in this crash course
On-Demand Workshop on Skincare Routine Steps
@drteowanlin SKINCARE DECODED: COMPLETE SKINCARE COURSE FOR EXPERTS On-Demand Workshop on Skincare Routine Steps Welcome to The Slide Show with Dr.TWL Episode 2, where we present skin science in bite-sized formats. Today we will be covering the first, fundamental step in skincare routines, makeup removal. Makeup removal What are the two main formulation options for makeup removers? The first is a micellar formulation. The second, an oil-based cleanser or an emulsion, sometimes known as a “milk” cleanser. I will go through the pros and cons of each but first let us define some terms. How does micellar water work? Micellar water works by hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving) properties of a micelle. The makeup residue is attracted to the water-hating aspect, this is best thought of as a ball that is wrapped up which continues to roll on skin grabbing the residual pigment and dirt. To remove the ball which is a micelle, you use a cotton pad. Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin. What is the downside to oil cleansers? Pure oil cleansers are often too greasy, my choice is an emulsion or a milk cleanser. Milk cleansers are oil in water formulations, the oil component dissolves makeup pigments and removes excess sebum. The “like for like” principle here is that oil soluble pigments are dissolved in a similar substance—an oil in water emulsion. What is the difference between emulsion vs oil cleansers? The benefits of an emulsion are that it is less greasy than pure oil formulations. It is also effective as a humectant if formulated with moisturising ingredients. When you physically rub off the makeup on a cotton pad, the oil component protects your skin. It acts as a barrier between the cotton pad and skin, hence reducing friction unlike with micellar solution. Dermatologist skincare Singapore Dermatologist recommended skincare Best serum Singapore Best dermatologist skincare Singapore #skincareroutine#skincareactives#skincareactives101#oilcleansing#skincareingredients#skincareingredient#singaporedoctor#dermatologist#singaporedoctors#skincare#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct#dermdoctor#learningsfun#learnontiktok♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
Welcome to The Slide Show with Dr.TWL Episode 2, where we present skin and skincare science in bite-sized formats decoded for you. Today we will be covering the first, fundamental step in skincare routines, makeup removal.
Skincare Decoded:Makeup removal
What are the two main formulation options for makeup removers?
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The first is a micellar formulation. The second, an oil-based cleanser or an emulsion, sometimes known as a “milk” cleanser. I will go through the pros and cons of each but first let us define some terms.
How does micellar water work?
Makeup Removal for Skin - 31
Makeup Removal for Skin - 32
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Micellar water works by hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving) properties of a micelle. The makeup residue is attracted to the water-hating aspect, this is best thought of as a ball that is wrapped up which continues to roll on skin grabbing the residual pigment and dirt. To remove the ball which is a micelle, you use a cotton pad. Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin.
What is the downside to oil cleansers?
Makeup Removal for Skin - 34
Makeup Removal for Skin - 35
Pure oil cleansers are often too greasy, my choice is an emulsion or a milk cleanser. Milk cleansers are oil in water formulations, the oil component dissolves makeup pigments and removes excess sebum. The “like for like” principle here is that oil soluble pigments are dissolved in a similar substance—an oil in water emulsion.
What is the difference between emulsion vs oil cleansers?
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Makeup Removal for Skin - 37
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The benefits of an emulsion are that it is less greasy than pure oil formulations. It is also effective as a humectant if formulated with moisturising ingredients. When you physically rub off the makeup on a cotton pad, the oil component protects your skin. It acts as a barrier between the cotton pad and skin, hence reducing friction unlike with micellar solution.
“Skincare Decoded is created for skincare professionals. A compilation of the original Skincare Bible: Dermatologist’s Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare with the interactive course workbook I developed to guide effective learning. ” Dr Teo Wan Lin, dermatologist and founder of the Beauty Bible Series by Dr.TWL®.
Skincare Decoded – The Ultimate Skincare Textbook by Dr.TWL
Achieve Beautiful Skin With Dr.TWL’s Beauty Bible Series
The updated edition complete with esthetician pearls and online workshop access. In this course, board certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin shares her medi-facial and skincare secrets, based on solid foundational principles of restoring and repairing the skin microbiome. Learn from a world-renowned dermatologist based on a curriculum specifically designed for aestheticians and dermatology physician assistants.
Principles of skincare regimes backed by the latest evidence
Cosmetic science behind skincare vehicles
Tell the differences between serums, lotions and creams
Personalise a skincare routine
A section of the Skincare Decoded book features FAQ style learning segment of broad dermatological principles. A complete course created by Dr Teo Wan Lin, international beauty KOL and host of Asia’s premier beauty podcast Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty that has collaborated with top industry names like the AMORE-Pacific group, Eucerin, Dior Beauty, Skinceuticals, FOREO and the Loreal group.
Digital Skincare Workshop Syllabus:
Concepts in dermatological science
Skin disorders & cosmetic effects
At-Home facial tips
Skincare fundamentals – cleansing
Masking better
How did Skincare Decoded come about?
The Skincare Decoded edition combines Skincare Bible: Dermatologist’s Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare by board-certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin, with a companion workbook as well as standalone Skin Masters Academy foundational lecture series access. This book is a trusted tome of skincare advice that has been widely quoted by beauty writers in international media such as CNN Philippines.
Besides the readily accessible style of the original Q & A style skincare bible, this title contains interactive skin science based worksheets that takes you through each chapter with a step by step, systematic approach.
What you get:
Dedicated self-test sections plus answer key
Worksheets accompany illustrations for visual learners
Answer difficult skincare questions like an expert
At-a-glance concept maps
Fill in the blanks
Mind maps and index cards
Your ideal companion for on the go quick learning and revision.
Skincare Decoded—Get this Book!
This skincare and facial expert course is perfect for:
Salon owners, beauticians, aestheticians
Master skincare expertise and basic dermatology conditions
Offer facials that work; avoid those that don’t
Learn the Science of Beauty and the Art of Skincare Routines from the skincare expert herself
Beauty entrepreneurs
Beauty bloggers, influencers, thought leaders
What you’ll learn
Complete Skincare Routine—Intermediate to Advanced / Expert Levels
Double Cleansing + Sonic Cleansing
Toners/Lotions + Pore Treatment
Serums + Face Oils
Moisturiser Types: Lotions, Creams, Ointments and Face Mists
Advice on tailoring fail-proof/irritation-free skincare regimens for clients for greater customer satisfaction
Build skin resilience with Dr.TWL Pharmacy. Treat, Test & Monitor dry skin with our Skin Barrier Repair Kit.
You may already be aware of the importance of skin barrier function—how it can affect the condition of the skin, but how exactly? Skin hydration and the stratum corneum barrier have been active areas of dermatologic research for a good decade. Alongside these developments, consumers are beginning to find their interest piqued about the subject, largely because of the marketing campaigns by industry giants. Before you commit to any product or treatment that promises skin barrier repair, I’ll teach you exactly how to navigate industry jargon so you don’t get confused, worse still, foxed by the deluge of claims—beginning with the basic science of skin.
Skin Anatomy And Physiology
Figure 1.1: Diagram showing structure of skin
The skin is made up of 3 layers – epidermis, dermis and hypodermis (otherwise known as ‘subcutis’ or ‘panniculus’).
The epidermis has 5 layers – stratum corneum, stratum granulosum (granular cell layer), stratum spinosum (spiny layer) and stratum basale (basal cell layer) from the outermost to the innermost layer.
This outermost layer of the skin consists mainly of keratinocytes, cells which produce a protein called keratin that is a key structural material in the hair, skin and nails. These cells mature over a two-week life cycle. During these two weeks, they are first differentiated from epidermal stem cells in the basal cell layer and are further differentiated as they move upwards towards the epidermis. At the end of the 28-day cycle, they are shed off after reaching the stratum corneum.
The dermis has 2 layers – the papillary dermis and reticular dermis. It mainly consists of fibroblasts, collagen and elastic fibers.
The final layer of the skin called hypodermis is where the adipose tissue (fats) lie.
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Figure 1.2: Diagram showing skin structure
Concept Of Skin Function And Importance of Skin Barrier Repair
1. Skin barrier function – the skin acts as a physical barrier between the internal and external environments to retain moisture and protect the skin against mechanical, chemical and microbial injury; dysfunction of the skin barrier may result in injury, dehydration, infection and inflammation
2. Immunologic – the skin senses and responds to pathogens; dysfunction of the immunologic barrier may result in infection, allergy, inflammatory skin conditions and in the worst case scenario, could lead to skin cancer
3. Temperature regulation – the skin maintains a constant body temperature by regulating heat loss in the form of sweat production, with insulating properties of fat and hair and with a dense superficial microvasculature; the failure to maintain a constant body temperature could lead to hyper- or hypothermia
The second edition of the skincare bible includes specialised Focus Tutorialson two new modules Skin Resilience & Skin Barrier Repair with extended question and answer practice for advanced practitioners.
4. Protection from radiation – a dark pigment in the epidermis called melanin protects the skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation; disruption of the production of melanin increases the risk of skin cancer
5. Nerve sensation – the skin constantly monitors the environment through sensory receptors and mechanoreceptors found in the skin; dysfunction in the nerve sensation may lead to pruritus, dysesthesia (an abnormal sensation) and insensitivity to injury (as in the case of diabetes and leprosy)
6. Injury repair – the skin has the ability to repair cutaneous wounds in four phases: coagulation, inflammatory, proliferative-migratory (tissue formation) and remodelling; the loss of this ability results in delayed wound healing (e.g. post-radiation treatment)
7. Appearance and quality of life – besides medical conditions, deteriorations to the skin such as skin defects or physiological ageing can lead to psychological distress (e.g. lipoatrophy and vitiligo);
Skin diseases can all be localised to a problem when any one of these functions of skin are disrupted and will be covered in the following chapters.
The Skincare Bible: Strategic Blueprint for Resilient Skin teaches you the art and science of skin barrier repair.
Skin Barrier Repair And Hydration
You may have heard about the term ‘skin barrier’, which in scientific terms is more accurately referred to as the ‘stratum corneum barrier’. How important is the skin’s barrier function and how exactly does it work?
Skin hydration and the stratum corneum barrier have been active areas of dermatological research for many years. In the last 5 years, commercial companies have started to market their skincare to address this. Before you commit to any product or treatment that promises to skin barrier repair, have a read on to understand what these terms and processes mean.
The Stratum Corneum Skin Barrier
The skin barrier primarily prevents foreign material from entering the human body. But it also does more than just that. It prevents water loss and serves as a shield against the environment. The barrier works to maintain the body’s homeostasis (or stable equilibrium) level, without which the entire body’s organ systems will shut down. The loss of water from the body through evaporation from the surface of the skin is known as Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), thus a need to maintain hydration of the superficial cells, known as corneocytes.
Corneocytes are the cells found in the stratum corneum layer, the outermost layer of the epidermis. These cells are formed through cornification, where the skin cells develop tough protective layers or structures, ultimately creating a physical barrier for the skin. When deprived of moisture, dry skin easily develops cracks, fissures and is more susceptible to environmental changes such as the weather.
Ambient humidity also affects the corneocytes. As the level of environmental humidity varies, corneocytes acclimatise by drawing water up from the deeper layer of skin cells, in order to maintain equilibrium with the environment. This explains why our skin feels drier in winter.
Skin Hydration
Skin hydration is a critical factor in attaining healthy skin and a measure of any effective skin barrier repair. A mixture of water-soluble compounds called natural moisturising factor (NMF) have been found to affect water content levels. The arrangement of lipids (fats) in the stratum corneum is also important, as it serves as an effective barrier to the passage of water through the layer. A poor arrangement or deficiency in the corneocyte “cement” can lead to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). TEWL occurs as water diffuses and evaporates from the skin surface. While this is a physiological process, excess TEWL is undesirable as it can lead to excessively dry skin.
Achieve healthy, radiant skin inside-out—based on principles of skin barrier repair for resilience.
TEWL and Moisturisers
TEWL has been one of the most commonly used methods in dermatology research to measure skin hydration as it directly correlates with skin barrier dysfunction. Healthy skin would score a low TEWL value as it would mean less water loss.
In the same vein, most moisturisers are put to the test by using TEWL values. A good moisturiser should help decrease TEWL. Moisturisers have remained as a ‘staple’ in basic skincare. Yet, not many may fully understand its function, thus leading to confusion in choosing a suitable moisturiser for their skin needs. An effective moisturiser should protect the skin by stimulating and augmenting its natural barrier function for holistic skin barrier repair, creating the perfect microenvironment for skin healing. Moisturisers will slow downskin ageing as a result.
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What happens if the water content of the stratum corneum falls below a desirable level? Normal desquamation is not able to take place, that is the shedding of the outermost skin layer. With insufficient hydration, skin cells will adhere to one another and accumulate on the surface layer. Visible changes associated with this phenomenon include dryness, roughness, scaling and flaking.
Certain cosmetic ingredients such as ceramide, glycerol (also known as glycerin) and hyaluronic acid have gained prominence in recent years by targeting the stratum corneum water content. How do these work?
Ceramide for Skin Barrier Repair
Figure 1.3: Diagram showing brick and mortar skin barrier model
Ceramides are best understood as the cement joining bricks of a wall together. Genetically, people with sensitive/eczema skin types have deficient ceramide content. Additionally, one’s skin barrier can be damaged by the use of harsh cleansers containing laureth sulfates, over-washing or just due to ageing and hormonal influences such as menopause. The use of ceramides in moisturisers is crucial in preventing and repairing skin barrier dysfunction.
@drteowanlin Ceramide benefits in moisturizer for dry skin Improve skin hydration Reduce water loss from skin Increase skin’s natural ceramides Anti-inflammatory Beneficial for those with eczema, or atopic dermatitis Most ceramides beauty brands refer to are synthetic or animal sources, i.e. bovine in origin—which is also a concern for those preferring a vegan lifestyle. Dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin’s top pick for ceramides is a lesser-known subtype known as phytoceramides. These are botanically derived from plant seed oils and the most prominent phytoceramide of all is shea butter. Derived from the shea tree, shea butter provides a rich source of natural origin plant-based ceramides that can repair the skin barrier effectively. Benefits of phytoceramide skincare Enhance hydration better than synthetic ceramide Improve the recovery rate of damaged stratum corneum Improved immunity Anti-inflammatory #dryskin#moisturiser_for_dryskin#moisturisertreatment#sgskincare#dermatologytiktok#sgtoktok#sgdoctor#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
Glycerol for Skin Barrier Repair
This ingredient exists in the stratum corneum as a humectant. It has been demonstrated that changes in the stratum corneum’s water content correlate with the glycerol content in the layer. Such results have driven the development of glycerol-containing moisturisers since decades ago. Check the ingredient list of your moisturiser, this is a fundamental ingredient which should appear in any basic, effective moisturiser used for skin barrier repair.
Hyaluronic Acid for Skin Barrier Repair
Known chemically as sodium hyaluronate, it is a major component of the dermis (deeper layer of the skin). What is less known is that hyaluronic acid is also present in the outermost layer. It plays an important role in regulating the skin barrier function and hydration. Although the skin care industry may recognise hyaluronic acid as a powerful humectant (it attracts water to hydrate the skin), this molecule also participates in cellular functions. Hyaluronic acid influences cell-cell interactions that lead to normal structure of the skin barrier and hence is critical in skin barrier repair.
Conclusion
Though the mechanisms for skin hydration are complex and beyond the scope of this book, a basic understanding about the skin structure and function is crucial to form the basis for choosing appropriate moisturisers for any skin type. Dermatologist-recommended moisturisers target at least one, if not all of these pathways for effective skin hydration to achieve skin barrier repair. With a myriad of drug-store and luxury beauty brands available, it is a useful guide to determine what may be worth your dollar for your basic moisturiser.
Moisturising is a basic step in a skincare routine after cleansing which every one should incorporate. That aside, if you are looking to up your current skincare routine, cosmeceuticals are the buzzword amongst dermatologists. A combination of ‘cosmetics’ and ‘pharmaceuticals’,cosmeceuticals are products with bioactive ingredients that can bring benefits to skin health including skin barrier repair, and are prescribed as adjuncts to anti-ageing treatment.
If you are wondering how to treat pigmentation on sensitive skin, this tutorial is for you. Part 2 of the Skincare Formulation Series by Skin Masters Academy brings you the delicate art of treating pigmentation while balancing the needs of sensitive skin.
This series is written for advanced skincare practitioners who are interested in the use of cosmeceuticals including non prescription topicals as adjunct therapy for various cosmetic skin concerns.
Listen and learn. Follow us on Spotify podcasts for your complimentary access to skincare tutorials for advanced practitioners.
Bite Sized Beauty: At-a-Glance FAQ With Dr.TWL
How do you treat pigmentation on sensitive skin?
The needs of both must be balanced. Sensitive skin is caused by a dysfunctional skin barrier, which means that the superficial corneocytes have lost their ability to adhere together. This results in a leaky epidermis. External allergens can trigger immunological reactions resulting in redness, itch, stinging and flaking. Moreover, ingredients used to treat hyperpigmentation can penetrate deeper and quicker if the barrier is breached. It’s key therefore to choose only non-irritating actives that treat hyperpigmentation. This excludes the use of retinol and retinoids for those with sensitive skin. Vitamin C serum formulations should have low acidity—if possible, choose neutral compounds like sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate instead of L-ascorbic acid based vitamin C serums.
Discover the Skincare & Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary—an entire course workbook and textbook, complete with online lectures created by a board certified dermatologist for advanced skincare practitioners.
Which cream is best for pigmentation skin?
In terms of traditional cosmeceuticals, hydroquinone and retinoid based formulations work best for stubborn pigmentation such as melasma. However, these are particularly tricky to use in sensitive skin types. Hydroquinone is known to breach the skin barrier and also causes a paradoxical rebound phenomenon if used inappropriately. For this reason, dermatologists recommend using hydroquinone based formulations for 6 months maximum—requiring a break in between or there could be a condition known as onchronosis that results. Retinoids are troublesome for those with sensitive skin—they do damage the skin barrier and should be used with care under the supervision of a dermatologist.
Newer non-prescription alternatives have emerged in cosmeceutical research over the years which include melanogenesis blockers like kojic acid, arbutin and novel inhibitors that we will cover at the end of the tutorial.
Take the Skin Expert & Medi-Facial Course by Dr.TWL, the only certificate course created by a board certified dermatologist for aestheticians and advanced skincare practitioners.
Which acid is best for hyperpigmentation for sensitive skin?
Traditional chemical peel acids like salicylic, glycolic and retinol peels can adversely affect the skin barrier of sensitive skin types. Lactic acid is a gentler alternative although newer formulations now include plant enzyme peels like pineapple and papaya derived bromelain and papain respectively. Hydrodermabrasionis a form of physical exfoliation which can also improve the surface quality of sensitive skin types. By the infusion of antioxidant serums that contain plant actives, vitamin C—there can be a simultaneous benefit that targets underlying processes responsible for melanin production.
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In-Depth Skin Science With Dr.TWL
Ready for some skin science? Follow me on IG and TikTok for this brand new series The Slideshow With Dr.TWL.
Physiology of Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is a state of hyper reactivity. Key to understanding this is the concept of barrier function. We already know about the brick wall model of skin, which means that once the skin barrier is damaged, the proteins associated with the structure of this wall also changes. Ultimately, this is what stimulates inflammation, leading to tissue damage. This is further exacerbated by what we call the itch scratch cycle. It is helpful to know that neurological factors play a role when it comes to sensitive skin.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 1: Patch Test
Understand the physiology involved—skin barrier dysfunction is what triggers sensitive skin reactions like itching, redness, flaking and stinging. Knowing what to look out for is important to monitor for adverse reactions when using a new skincare product. Patch testing before using the product on the affected area is key. Use a small amount on an inconspicuous area such as under the jawline and monitor for any adverse reactions overnight.
The Sensitive Skin Model
In dermatology research, the sensitive skin model is what scientists use for testing—essentially a skin model that mimics actual skin barrier damage.
With this, researchers proceeded to investigate the effect of cosmeceuticals on the damaged skin barrier.
@drteowanlin Physiology of Sensitive Skin Sensitive skin is a state of hyper reactivity. Key to understanding this is the concept of barrier function. We already know about the brick wall model of skin, which means that once the skin barrier is damaged, the proteins associated with the structure of this wall also changes. Ultimately, this is what stimulates inflammation, leading to tissue damage. This is further exacerbated by what we call the itch scratch cycle. It is helpful to know that neurological factors play a role when it comes to sensitive skin How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 1: Patch Test Understand the physiology involved—skin barrier dysfunction is what triggers sensitive skin reactions like itching, redness, flaking and stinging. Knowing what to look out for is important to monitor for adverse reactions when using a new skincare product. Patch testing before using the product on the affected area is key. Use a small amount on an inconspicuous area such as under the jawline and monitor for any adverse reactions overnight. #skincareroutine#skincareactives#skincareactives101#skincareingredients#skincareingredient#singaporedoctor#dermatologist#singaporedoctors#skincare#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct#dermdoctor#learningsfun#learnontiktok#sensitiveskin#sensitiveskincare♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
List of Cosmeceuticals Identified in Research for Sensitive Skin Treatment
The following are a list of extracts that have been identified for its efficacy. We have oat extract, olive leaf extract, brown algae, stachycose and erythritol. These extracts are chosen for
their ability to scavenge free radicals
inhibit hyaluronidase, the enzyme responsible for the breakdown of a hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is an important structural protein in the dermis.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 2: Ingredients to Avoid
Avoid acids and retinol/retinoid products. Many skincare products formulated for the treatment of hyperpigmentation include peel acids like AHAs, BHAs as well as retinols. These damage the skin barrier and are not suitable for treatment of pigmentation on sensitive skin types.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 3: Go Low & Slow
Apply the product in a gradual, incremental manner. Go slow and low. Non-prescription actives have the potential to cause skin irritation as much as prescription actives in sensitive skin types. If you have sensitive skin and are using a low concentration of glycolic, salicylic or lactic acids for treatment of hyperpigmentation, play safe by starting at a once-a-week frequency.
Remember tip 1–which is always begin with patch test first if you have sensitive skin. After that you can proceed to monitor your skin for up to a week after you use the product on the target area. I would then increase frequency at a weekly interval i.e. from once to twice a week, then three times a week, alternate days before using it on a daily or twice daily basis.
Bacterial Ferment Filtrates in Functional Dermatology
I want to now draw your attention to what I call functional filtrates. These refer to bacterial ferments such as those from galactomyces and lactobacillus.
The Origins of the Discovery
Elderly sake brewers were observed to have a wrinkle free, youthful looking skin on their hands which were in constant contact with the sake fermentation process. This was in contrast to their faces which were wrinkled and filled with pigmented spots.
Research on the Sensitive Skin Model
Clinical studies done by scientists then demonstrated that galactomyces and lactobacillus ferment filtrates were able to improve fluctuations in redness, roughness and pore size. They were also helpfil in alleviating mask-induced skin irritation in the era of mask wearing during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The Science behind Bacterial Ferment Filtrates
How exactly do bacterial ferment filtrates work? First of all, they upregulate ceramide production via filaggrin gene expression which is what we know as the key player in healthy skin barrier function. They are also what we consider Tapinarof or TAMA-like. These have been used as alternative therapeutics for inflammatory skin diseases in dermatology like psoriasis and eczema.
Therapeutic Skin Benefits of Ferment Filtrates
Ferment filtrates are nature’s very own TAMAs. Beyond that, bacterial ferments have an inherent antioxidant capacity. This additional antioxidant effect is what neutralises damaging free radicals. One of the ways it does it is by blocking key mechanisms in the process of inflammaging, for instance cell senescence, the process of cells falling asleep. By doing so, we are reducing stress in the skin and enhancing skin cell repair.
Cosmeceuticals containing bacterial ferments also demonstrate increased caspase 14 enzyme expression, which are essentially enzymes that are activated by the phytochemicals present in plant extracts. There is also increased expression of tight junction molecules. These affect the connections between the cells that make up the skin barrier. This ultimately affects the permeability of the barrier and helps to restore healthy skin function.
Are Ferment Filtrates the Answer?
This may be the key to bridging the gap between the needs of hyperpigmentation sufferers and those with coexisting sensitive or reactive skin. Understanding the science behind cosmetic formulations is a start.
In summary, we have discussed the latest research in skin barrier function, the basis for functional dermatology actives that target hyperpigmentation. Ingredients tested on damaged skin models in the laboratory setting can be of significant use to those seeking alternative tyrosinase inhibitors.
Botanicals, phytochemical extracts and bacterial ferment products can target multiple pathways of skin inflammation and reactivity.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 4: Use Moisturiser Liberally
The problem with sensitive skin is that it never seems to break out of the vicious cycle of barrier dysfunction-environmental trigger-immune reaction—all of which result in perpetuation of the itch scratch cycle. Pigmentation is most often at the superficial layers of skin, though in conditions such as melasma it can go deeper in the second layer known as the dermis. Skincare actives that treat pigmentation can penetrate deeper if the skin barrier is breached—though by the same reasoning we can expect an elevated risk of skin irritation. Liberal, frequent use of a ceramide-dominant moisturiser can mitigate this risk.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 5: Dedicate Time to Masking Properly
Masking is truly an underrated skincare step. It might sound simple enough, but it works via the basis of wet occlusion therapy—a well founded dermatological principle. In dermatological therapeutics, wet occlusion is an applied technique that helps treat eczema by enhancing absorption of skincare actives. When a wet layer of textile is applied on skin, this improves the permeability of the skin barrier. However, one caveat is that you should use purely hydrating actives in your face mask and avoid retinols, salicylic acids and glycolic acids.
A mask made of polysaccharide offers significant benefits over traditional single use sheet masks. First of all, the dehydrated form means it has a longer shelf-life compared to those infused with facial essences. It is also customisable, meaning that you could use your own moisturiser with it instead of purchasing expensive serums or lotions. On its own, polysaccharides are also an effective moisturising ingredient—they create little pockets or “mini-reservoirs” that trap moisture at the skin surface.
Case Study: Sensitive Skin & Hyperpigmentation
This case study involving an ideal cosmeceutical regimen for those with eczema and coexisting hyperpigmentation can direct of future research in this field.
There are a few keys that form the foundation of such a product. The ideal skincare formula targeting sensitive skin and hyperpigmentation includes ceramides, natural moisturising factors and bacterial ferments which addresses hyperpigmentation. Critically, sensitive skin users ought to go retinol and retinoid free— as these are well known to cause skin irritation.
Beyond that, I am excited to share with you the exciting world of functional dermatology—one that shows the way to alternative tyrosinase inhibitors and novel melanogenesis blockers—each playing a key role in the future of cosmeceuticals.
Skincare courses by Dr.TWL Skin Masters Academy offer an in-depth study into the science of skincare and practice of basic dermatology taught by board-certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin. As an international beauty KOL, Dr Teo has collaborated with leading skincare brands such as Eucerin, Skinceuticals, L’Oreal Paris to name a few on her podcast Dermatologist Talks Science of Beauty.
Our beauty promise: on-demand skincare courses online 24/7 designed for skin experts by a board-certified dermatologist
In this guide, we’ve put together the best 5 online skincare courses by the academy, created especially for skincare professionals. As a skin expert, make constant learning a priority—the world of skin science is evolving rapidly in a highly competitive industry worth hundreds of billions of dollars today. These courses are designed by a leading international beauty KOL to help position you as a thought leader and skin expert wherever you are.
Our promise at Dr.TWL Skin Masters Academy: the best skincare courses delivered by a board-certified dermatologist.
Dr Teo Wan Lin is the author of published research on the skin microbiome. Her work as chief scientific officer of Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, one of Asia’s prominent clinical skincare brands has been published in leading dermatology journals such as the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and the International Journal of Dermatology.
This is the most comprehensive course on medi-facials you will find. Dr Teo Wan Lin shares the exact blueprint for her proprietary 7-Phase Medi-Facial system developed for her own dermatology practice, with a step by step protocol designed to take students of all skill levels to complete mastery. She covers common dermatological conditions such as acne and eczema, how to identify and design compatible skincare routines as part of a comprehensive treatment regimen.
Searching for online skincare courses? Get access to a dermatologist’s tips on skincare formulation and clinical techniques at Skin Masters Academy.
For those interested in holistic acne treatment, this course offers a complete guide to a complementary approach to the management of the commonest dermatological condition—acne. Whether you suffer from acne, are a parent of a teen who does, or if you are a skincare professional looking to offer evidence-based advice on skincare routines that target acne, this course offers pearls of wisdom direct from a dermatologist.
Natural skincare courses created by international beauty KOL and founder of holistic skincare brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals now online.
Dr.TWL Skin Masters Academy is a leading provider of skincare courses online. Discover the best in skin science education from an international beauty KOL, board certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin.
This highly rated course lays the core foundations for skin experts looking to specialise in barrier repair. Discover why the K-beauty skincare routines that took TikTok by storm aren’t fads—layering skincare is actually backed by solid dermatological principles. Learn directly from the skin expert herself how to effectively heal the skin barrier without prescription medications. You’ll access evidence-based clinical techniques for barrier repair and also gain confidence in your own practice.
Explore skincare courses online conducted for skincare professionals by Dr.TWL Skin Masters Academy.
Want to know a dermatologist’s beauty secrets? This course is a never before in-depth exploration of Dr.TWL’s own best practices for inside out beauty. From tackling emotional regulation with mindfulness practice to the science behind beauty sleep, join the dermatologist on a healing journey as she takes you through the art of inside out beauty. Anti-age your mind, skin and body with holistic wellness approach.
Advanced skincare courses now online at Dr.TWL Skin Masters Academy
Are you a beauty entrepreneur? This skincare course is the most comprehensive on skincare ingredients, complete with an online learning portal. Designed for serious learners, this course takes you through in a systemic way the foundations of skincare formulation. Learn from the chief scientific officer of Asia’s leading clinical skincare brand the art and science of cosmetic formulation. This course offers an in depth look into the behind-the-scenes of niche beauty—custom skincare formulation and the art of hand blending compatible actives.
Are you ready to elevate your beauty business with clinical skincare expertise? This advanced, on-demand diploma program from Dr.TWL Skin Masters Academy offers 12 hours of expert-led training and 540 infographic-style slides, designed by a board-certified dermatologist. Grounded in functional dermatology, it equips you with clinical-grade coaching tools, brand-neutral* skincare formulation strategies, and ready-to-use client consultation scripts. Perfect for tackling complex skin concerns like acne-prone sensitive skin and oily-dehydrated types, this is the only skincare coaching certification of its kind—crafted for professionals who want to lead with science and stand out in the beauty industry.
@drteowanlin The Skincare Ingredient Dictionary: A Millennial Edit Discover State-Of-The-Art Functional Dermatology The must-have skincare ingredients handbook with the latest in bacterial ferment filtrates, aquaporin regulators and granactive retinoids. Created for skin experts, this book is jam-packed with core and specialised cosmetic formulation secrets by the chief scientific officer of leading Asian clinical skincare brand Dr TWL Dermaceuticals. Includes resources for creating a custom skincare line catered for small business owners or DIY beauty enthusiasts. Ditch outdated textbook or dictionary-style rote learning, this is a course created for true content mastery—a skincare dictionary essential for millennial beauty experts Become a skin expert under the Dr.TWL Skin Masters Program Optimised interactive learning program with workbook Systematic foundation building course created for true mastery Takes you from beginner/intermediate to advanced without difficulty Outstanding visuals for attention retention Content blueprints, speed guides for quick recap & reference Bullet-style lecture notes Flash cards(cut-out), mind-map method worksheets Module-specific video workshops & community access Divided into 10 modules, the Skin Masters Program introduces must-know skincare actives in the context of skin physiology & functions, taught by a board-certified dermatologist. Skincare ingredients Skincare ingredients Not to mix Skincare ingredients Checker Skincare ingredients You can mix Skincare ingredients To avoid Skincare ingredients To combine Skincare ingredients Check Skincare ingredients And what they do Skincare ingredients For acne Skincare ingredients Must haves #skincareroutine#skincareactives#skincareactives101#skincareingredients#skincareingredient#singaporedoctor#dermatologist#singaporedoctors#skincare#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct#dermdoctor#learningsfun#learnontiktok♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
Are you a book lover? Discover our Beauty Bible Series now available in hardcover paperback and kindle edition, with select free online skincare courses accompanying the textbook material. Get your highlighters and pens ready as you join Dr.TWL on a fun filled learning journey—become a master of skin science, an expert in your field.
The Beauty Bible collection features an online learning portal which allows you to post your skincare and beauty questions in a dedicated forum—get them answered by Dr.TWL. Offering the best online skincare courses internationally, Skin Masters Academy prides itself as the leading provider of skincare educational resources helmed by a board-certified dermatologist.
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Learn from the best. Subscribe to Skincare Blueprint, the fortnightly newsletter by Dr.TWL herself for bonus content including free skincare courses, masterclasses and workshops tailored for skincare professionals.
Dr.TWL Pharmaceuticals Corp. is a dermatologist-formulated private label skincare manufacturer with a presence in Singapore and home of K-beauty, Korea—it is the parent company and manufacturer of prominent clinical skincare brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, established since 2016. Jointly led by board-certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin and pharmaceutical engineer Mr Teo Zhi Liang, Dr.TWL Pharmaceuticals provides a one-stop OEM/ODM service for skincare brands, with expertise in dermatologist-formulated cosmeceuticals/dermocosmetics as well as skincare/haircare devices.
With existing EURO ISO22716 manufacturing facilities & R&D headquarters in the Asia-Pacific region—Seoul, the hub of K-beauty and the luxury skincare market in Singapore since 2016. The corporation draws on its wealth of expertise to provide premium private label skincare and haircare services in the highly competitive luxury skincare market.
CONTACT US
Businesses only with valid business registration. For enquiries and a quote: please fill up the following form. We will get back to you within 3 working days. UPDATE:Enrolment for OEM/ODM 2024-25 is full. To apply for distributorship of our in house Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals brand, fill up the form here.
Who we serve
We are the skincare manufacturer behind prominent clinical skincare brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, an in-house cosmeceutical brand tied with one of Singapore’s top dermatology practices. Our B2B services are set to launch in Q4 2023—offering private label OEM and ODM services for skincare, haircare and device manufacturing.
As the manufacturer of one of Asia’s most prominent clinical skincare brands, Dr.TWL Pharmaceuticals offers dermatologist formulated private label skincare manufacturing for aesthetic and dermatology clinics.
Skincare, haircare, devices and makeup manufacturing with international doorstep fulfilment
Choose us as your one-stop skincare manufacturer—our in-house team will be able to advise you on private label home devices engineered under our Biomaterials arm.
For those who are interested in lower MOQ/trial basis, find out more about our B2B custom makeup and medi-essence service at +65 97286734 (Mobile/WhatsApp).
Hypoallergenic sensorial skincare
We specialise in the creation of dermatologist-approved, minimally allergenic sensorial skincare in keeping with top-of-line cosmeceuticals with enhanced cosmetic accceptability. Our hypoallergenic fragrances have been extensively studied and tested to be safe on universal skin types, including problem skin.
Cosmetics made to pharmaceutical standards
As a private label skincare manufacturer, we provide established aesthetic, skincare and dermatology practices access to dermatologist-formulated cosmeceuticals. Our dermocosmetic formulations have been tested extensively as adjunct treatment for dermatological conditions such as acne, rosacea and sensitive skin.
Enhanced co-operation: OEM/ODM services with flexible MOQ
Unlike traditional private label skincare manufacturers, our model allows for rapid turnaround time for dermocosmetic/product design to keep up with the highly competitive skincare industry—clients will be able to draw on our highly evolved R&D capabilities for product design.
Leader in cost-efficient ODM: MOQ 1000 and above
The industry standard for ODM starts at 10000 MOQ which is a significant barrier to entry for aesthetic clinics. Dr.TWL Pharmaceuticals is able to draw on our existing facilities, raw materials, in-house specialists—as the premier dermatologist-formulated private label skincare manufacturer in the APAC region with stringent pharmaceutical controls.
Our streamlined approach allows for maximum cost-efficiency and rapid turnaround for skincare, dermatology and aesthetic practices
What to expect when you work with us
Private-label skincare manufacturer with an established streamlined process
In-house team with extensive supply-chain and logistical support serving the international/APAC region
Quick turnaround time with low MOQ
Dermatologist-formulated private label dermocosmetics to complement your aesthetic practice
Quality audits and dermatologist testing
Our capabilities range from dermocosmetic formulation to clinical testing and quality audits.
Development of private label skincare, haircare, makeup and home-use devices
Choose us as your one-stop private label skincare manufacturer and get access to our haircare, makeup and device manufacturing services.
EUROISO22716 manufacturing facilities
Our biotechnology facilities encompass pharmaceutical-grade raw material extraction, cosmeceutical design and device manufacturing.
Dermocosmetic compliance checks by private label skincare manufacturer
Leverage on our in-house expertise for FDA/HSA ASEAN COSMETIC DIRECTIVES compliance checks.
5-STEP Private label skincare manufacturing process
The initial consultation maps out client requirements/needs (ODM packaging/blank bottle options)
In-house research and development for ODM
Development of samples and clinical testing
Client receives samples for final testing and approval
International delivery/fulfilment
About us
Mr Teo Zhi Liang, a chemical engineer by training with over a decade of experience working in the pharmaceutical and petrochemicals industry is the director and head of Dr.TWL Pharmaceuticals. Mr Teo graduated with first class honours from Nanyang Technological University and was accorded the gold medal in pharmaceutical engineering.
Dr Teo Wan Lin is a board-certified dermatologist and author of published research on the skin microbiome in top journals like the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and the International Journal of Dermatology. As an internationally renowned beauty KOL, she is sought after for her expertise in Asian skincare markets. Dr Teo has collaborated with leading skincare brands such the AMORE-PACIFIC group, Beiersdorf, L’Oréal Paris and LVMH. She serves on the board on a consultancy basis for R&D and ODM.
The brother-and-sister duo are responsible for taking Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, one of Singapore’s leading clinical skincare brands from its inception in 2016 as a startup to a 7-figure beauty empire.
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Press Features
Dior Beauty X Dr.TWL as seen in Elle China, Elle Netherlands, L’Officiel Malaysia, Marie Claire Brazil, Harper’s Bazaar Germany
Dr.TWL’s Skincare Ingredients Checker is a series covering a dermatologist’s top picks for common skincare actives found in skincare. Get the brand new release Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary by board certified dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin, a never-before skin expert’s handbook for mastery of skincare ingredients.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder (Aloe Vera)
What is it?
Aloe vera has been used for various medicinal purposes from ancient times. It is prominently featured in traditional eastern medicine, with ethnobotanical roots in China, India, the West Indies, and Japan. In the west, aloe vera has been grown mainly to supply the latex component of the leaf to the pharmaceutical industry.
“A-Z dictionaries are passé—the internet is a searchable trove of information. In the Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, I present a compilation of cosmeceuticals that you must master—from an analysis of over 300 skincare brands,” Dr. Teo Wan Lin, chief scientific officer of Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals.
Where is aloe vera derived from?
Powder form of the aloe plant
Obtained from dried leaves of the aloe plant and functions as a skin-conditioning agent
Skin benefits
Several anti-inflammatory components (among others, it contains salicylates, polysaccharides, magnesium lactate and C-glucosyl chromone)
Aloe-derived ingredients enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness
A skincare ingredient checker like no other. This skincare ingredient dictionary is precisely written to help you master and apply skincare formulation knowledge with neuroscience-backed techniques, including learning aides such as an interactive online learning portal with video workshops, flashcards and mind maps.
Aloe vera is a medicinal and perennial plant that belongs to the Liliaceae family. Aloe stems store water, creating a clear, gel-like substance in the leaves, which contains vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, and amino acids.
The main feature of the Aloe vera plant is its high water content, ranging from 99–99.5%. The remaining 0.5–1.0% solid material contains over 75 different potentially active compounds including water- and fat-soluble vitamins, minerals, enzymes. The bioactivity of aloe can be attributed to the inner gel of its leaves.
Skincare ingredients checker: get access to a comprehensive course covering cosmeceutical actives taught by Dr.TWL herself.
Aloe vera promotes wound healing
Aloe vera can be used to retain skin moisture, integrity and prevent ulcers. Its regenerative properties have been studied in the context of radiation damage—the gel form has been reported to exhibit a protective effect against radiation damage. Research has also shown that aloe vera can inhibit thromboxane (an inhibitor of wound healing), reducing inflammation and improving the wound healing process.
Glucomannan-rich
Aloe’s regenerative properties are due to the compound glucomannan, which is especially rich in polysaccharides like mannose.
Glucomannan stimulates collagen production
In addition, glucomannan affects fibroblast growth factor receptors and stimulates their activity and proliferation, which in turn increases the production of collagen. It can also change the composition of collagen, increase collagen cross-linking and thereby promote wound healing. Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibers making the skin more elastic and less wrinkled.
More than a skincare ingredient dictionary. This comprehensive skin expert handbook is more than a dictionary, it teaches you exactly the skills required to master these ingredients as a skin expert. Join Dr.TWL as she spills the secrets on the formulation strategies behind the best-selling skincare products.
Aloe vera has anti-wrinkle effects
Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibers making the skin more elastic and less wrinkled.
Aloe vera softens skin
Skin-softening is another cosmetic effect of aloe when used regularly. Aloe vera has cohesive effects on the superficial flaking epidermal cells by sticking them together, which softens the skin.
Skincare ingredient checker: what goes into the best-selling face serums? In this book, Dr.TWL shares her notes on specific formulations that actually work. Learn how to pair ingredients, select raw materials and even custom compound cosmeceuticals using the CUSTOM MEDI-ESSENCE System.
Aloe vera helps tighten enlarged pores
The amino acids present in aloe soften hardened skin cells. It is also particularly rich in minerals such as zinc, which acts as an astringent to tighten pores.
The Amino Acid 360° Mask contains Aloe Vera which is anti-aging with it’s anti-wrinkle and barrier-repair properties, and anti-acne with it’s pore-tightening and anti-microbial properties.
Aloe’s moisturizing effects has also been studied in treatment of dry skin associated with occupational exposure where aloe vera gel gloves improved the skin integrity, decreased appearance of fine wrinkle and decreased erythema.
A skincare ingredient checker like no other. This skincare ingredient dictionary is precisely written to help you master and apply skincare formulation knowledge with neuroscience-backed techniques, including learning aides such as an interactive online learning portal with video workshops, flashcards and mind maps.
Aloe vera’s antimicrobial properties for infections andacne treatment
Aloe vera is known for its anti-inflammatory, skin protection, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, antiseptic, and wound healing properties. It can be incorporated into skincare products to exert an anti-acne effect.
Aloe vera is generally a very well tolerated active that is dermatologist recommended for calming sensitive skin. However, rarely, contact allergy may occur in those who are prone to allergies. Allergic reactions are mostly due to the anthraquinones present in aloe vera, such as aloin and barbaloin. In this case contact allergy may manifest as localised skin irritation such as redness and burning or stinging sensations.
The Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary is a textbook that takes you through the study of skincare ingredients in a stepwise manner—through the tutelage of internationally renowned beauty KOL, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin. We hope you enjoyed our first installment of Dr.TWL’s Skincare Ingredients Checker—sign up for Skincare Blueprint to get access to bonus study material created for skin experts. For more skincare classes, head to the Skin Masters Academy, home to the best online skincare masterclasses.
