Retinoids, Moisturiser or Gel Masking for Sebaceous Filaments:

What works and what doesn’t? Sensitive, Oily-dehydrated skin edition

Ask a Dermatologist: What are Sebaceous Filaments?

• Sebaceous filaments are thin tubes that line your sebaceous glands

What’s inside a sebaceous filament?

• Oil glands produce oil, and so the joining tubes known as sebaceous filaments are filled with sebum

• Sebum is produced by the glands and travel via the filaments to the skin surface

What causes sebaceous filaments to be visible?

• Excess oil production can cause your sebaceous filaments to become more obvious

Are sebaceous filaments a sign of unhealthy skin?

No! Sebaceous filaments healthy part of your are a normal skin. Sebum is produced at the onset of puberty to help to lubricate and moisturise skin. Through these tubes, sebum reaches the skin surface.

What’s the difference between sebaceous filaments and blackheads?

Sebaceous filaments and blackheads may look similar, but they’re distinct.

Blackheads are part of acne. They’re also known as open comedomes, and appear as black bumps on the skin. Blackheads are due to oxidised sebum, dirt and dead skin cells that plug the pores, whereas sebaceous filaments are not acne. There is also no plugging, rather oil travels freely to the skin surface, Blackheads may look like a dark spot of dirt but sebaceous filaments look like areusually smaller, flat and lighter in color.

How can I test a sebaceous filament?

Squeeze if! If you squeeze sebaceous filaments, you should see a waxy, thread pop out of the pore. If you squeeze blackheads on the other hand, a dark plug is seen.

Can you get rid of sebaceous filaments?

Sebaceous filaments are part of healthy skin, but prominent filaments can be reduced with a proper skincare routine. Key targets are

1. Moisture barrier

2. Sebum/oil gland regulation

3. Exfoliation, cell turnover

These three factors are interlinked. The key is to regulate oil gland activity so as to minimise excess oil production, as in the case reactive seborrhoea.I.e. When skin is dehydrated, it tends to produce even more oil.

Treatment options

Pore strips can help to remove the visible tracts but will not stop it from recurring, Masks can help as improving moisture levels can regulate oil production. Gel masks are especially helpful as the gel vehicle has a mild astringent effect without being overly drying unlike clay masks.

Retinols, retinoids are all known to regulate sebum production, as are AHA and BHA acids but may cause irritation in sensitive skin.

Pharmacy recommendations

What to use on a daily basis (Retinol-retinoids-free regimen works even for sensitive skin)

• Honey cleanser: antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and humectant action regulates the skin micro environment

• Hyaluronic acid serum and vitamin C

• Papain/bromelain enzyme peel

Weekly treatment

• Amino acid gel mask

• Spicule mask peel

• Botanical formulations containing adaptogens such as the sebo-control mask

Serum Recommendations: How to Choose Serums for Your Skin Type

Resveratrol for acne scars: In this edition of Skincyclopedia, we unveil how resveratrol is a must-have ingredient in your acne skincare routine.

What you will learn:

• ☐ What are the benefits of resveratrol for acne scars?

• ☐ How does resveratrol work?

You may have heard about vitamin C and hyaluronic acid serums for acne scars, but did you know that one of the most potent anti-aging ingredients resveratrol also works to lighten hyperpigmentation and stimulate collagen?

Acne sufferers worry about dark spots, uneven skin tone and dull skin, and this is how a cosmeceutical skincare regimen can help. I’m a board-certified dermatologist with published research in top dermatology journals such as the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and the International Journal of Dermatology.

Quasi-drugs are the latest buzzword in the field of dermatology and cosmetic science. Many of these are plant derived with pharmaceutical properties and are originally studied in ethnobotany. The modern day scientific study of herbs and plants and how it can impact human health is an emerging field.

Functional dermatology is a holistic approach to skincare that includes the use of plant bioactives. Emerging evidence shows that cosmeceuticals or quasi-drugs play a role in the treatment of skin diseases such as acne, rosacea, sensitive skin and photoaging. 

How Resveratrol Works for Acne Scars:

While resveratrol is best known as an aging skincare active,  the same mechanisms are helpful in treatment and prevention of acne scars.

Resveratrol increases the lifespan of cells by targeting cell senescence, a key contributing factor to cell death and oxidative stress. This is especially pertinent for those with adult acne, as scarring can worsen due to age-related skin changes. 

Overall resevratrol is known to protect DNA, cell parts such as the mitochondria, responsible for cell energy. This directly improves skin’s ability to heal scars. 

The same anti-inflammatory mechanisms by which resveratrol reverses aging is applied to improve acne scar healing

Resveratrol is shown to enhance the lifespan of cells and is perhaps best known for protecting against age-related heart and brain degeneration. Ultimately, it plays a key role in reducing chronic inflammation. 

Resveratrol skincare for acne scars: resveratrol boosts collagen. This is the single ingredient that can help to reduce acne scars by activating collagen production. The Elixir-V serum is formulated with a highly potent  plant source of resveratrol, known as trans-resveratrol from polygonum cuspidatum. 

Does resveratrol lighten acne hyperpigmentation ?

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne scars is the commonest type of acne scarring. Using a potent antioxidant like resveratrol “eats up” damaging free radicals that are the cause of oxidative stress. Acne-prone skin tends to have excess oil production, which causes lipid peroxidation, a known risk factor for triggering inflammation. 

Is resveratrol good for acne spots? Does resveratrol treat inflamed acne?

Yes. As it is a non-irritating active, with additional anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, it can be used to synergistically treat inflamed acne bumps and pimples. Unlike retinol or retinoids which should not be applied on active acne, resveratrol is suited to calm inflammation. In fact, resveratrol can be combined with other antioxidants vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid for synergistic, targeted action for acne scar treatment and prevention. 

How long does it take for resveratrol to work for acne scars? 

Cosmeceutical regimens are effective according to skin cycles. Essentially, an average of 27-28 days is required for cell turnover, so that renewed skin cells take the place of old cells that are shed. Adding on an at-home skin device utilising technology such as microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion can significantly improve the absorption rate of skincare actives, especially helpful for those with acne scars and would like a gentler treatment option than lasers. Microdermabrasion can enhance transdermal delivery i.e. absorption of skincare active ingredient via the epidermis, accelerating results. 

Get access to more skincare secrets, tips and hacks when you subscribe to Skincare Blueprint, the fortnightly newsletter by a board-certified dermatologist for all your skin needs. 

How do you get glowing skin? It boils down to 4 key concepts

• Microcirculation 

Skin tissue is fed with nutrients by blood circulating through vessels, just like any organ. Mini blood vessels known as microvasculature are particularly susceptible to aging processes and metabolic diseases like diabetes that can impair blood flow. Smoking can also have a negative impact. Conversely, exercise enhances circulation, as does an overall healthy lifestyle. 

• Antioxidant reserve

The antioxidant reserve is the reservoir of free-radical busting agents that supports your skin. This reserve is depleted as you age, but can be enhanced by consumption of an antioxidant rich diet and application of cosmeceutical skincare. Environmental factors like UV damage skin by generating free radicals, but healthy skin is always able to quench the damage with antioxidants. 

Using adaptogens such as botanicals in your facial mist can provide the antioxidant boost for resilient skin.

• Cell renewal rates 

Cell renewal is the process of shedding dead skin cells to make way for new skin—that appears more radiant, elastic and plump. Our cell cycles lengthen as we grow older, resulting in retention of dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliation with glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid helps with cell renewal rates. If you have sensitive skin, consider papain and bromelain enzyme peels.

• Hydration 

The skin barrier is made of corneocytes at the top-most layer of skin, joined together by bits of “cement” which are really lipids that prevent transepidermal water loss or TEWL. Essentially, a weakened skin barrier allows for more evaporative loss, meaning water escapes from the deeper layers of your skin. 

Use skin flooding techniques to enhance barrier repair.

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