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In this workshop, we will be covering the following
Why skin on the lips is different
Common skin conditions affecting the lips
Step by Step dermatologist designed lip care protocol
How the right lip product can treat lip dryness and aging
The following is a lip care routine I designed, as part of my work on developing lip cosmeceuticals.
FAQ
How is skin on the lips different from the rest of facial skin?
Delicate part of your facial skin
Distinct type of epithelium
Mucosal area
Fragile, thinner
Readily absorb topicals i.e. systemic absorption into the body
The lips are a delicate part of your facial skin that is distinct because of the type of epithelium that is different from the rest of your facial skin. Because the mucosal area tends to be more delicate, it’s important to understand that mucosal areas often absorb whatever is applied on it – which can lead to absorption into the body system as well.
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Aren’t all lipsticks and lip balms edible? What is the difference with a truly edible lip care product?
No. While the ingredients must pass certain regulatory criteria for safety, there are limits to what is considered toxic, in the sense that small quantities of a chemical can be considered safe—but we know that ingesting chemicals isn’t part of our diet. In contrast an edible formula is always going to be preferable over a merely cosmetic formula . The latter may be safe, but not regarded as an edible.
How can we prevent the signs of lip aging?
The signs of lip aging include the following: wrinkling, dryness, loss of volume and discoloration. A good idea is to plump up your lips with cosmeceuticals that repair the barrier function. Humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid for instance work by drawing water from the deeper layers.
What are the functions of the ideal lip care product?
The perfect lip dermocosmetic should target restoration of elasticity, moisture levels, and natural pinkish hue of healthy, youthful looking lips.
Healthy, youthful looking lips
restoration of elasticity
moisture levels
natural pinkish hue
drtwl skin bioanalyzer
polysaccharide mask
skin bioanalyzer chart
skin bioanalyzer uses
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS TIP
Part of the comprehensive dry lip treatment products we recommend in our pharmacy is a monitoring device which is the skin hydration analyzer, which is able to measure the ceramide and elastin levels, as well as transepidermal water loss when used over delicate areas such as the lips as well as the eye area.
What are the active ingredients you should look out for in a lip care product?
The following active ingredients are backed by research to deliver the best benefits when it comes to lip care products. Firstly, phytoceramides derived from plant seed oils are effective at replacing and replenishing moisture by literally patching up broken parts of the lip mucosal barrier with lipids. Secondly, I’d look out for grape seed oil, a food derivative used in cosmetic formulations for its potent antioxidant properties. Grape seed oil is actually related to the well-known anti-aging ingredient resveratrol.
What are your top tips on a lip care routine?
Perfecting a routine depends very much on the products you use and also the sequence and technique of application. I wish to highlight the following 3-step routine which is what I personally recommend to my clients:
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS PRODUCT TIP #1
The Barely There Lip Scrub is a proprietary formula containing solid state crystals that gently exfoliate your lips at the same time effectively removing rough and dry skin without irritation. What follows is a smooth moisturising serum, leaving you with soft as the crystals dissolve on contact with mucosal skin, leaving smooth and hydrated lips.
Exfoliate with a lip scrub or a washcloth
Start off with an exfoliating lip scrub. Some lip scrubs available on the market are truly beneficial, these tend to use natural moisturising crystals like sugars which do not irritate delicate mucosal skin but instead dissolve onto the lips while providing a gentle exfoliation effect. Alternatively, you may just use a soft microfibre towel, or cotton pad dampened to gently rub on your lips with Vaseline as a quick way to remove flaky areas without irritating skin.
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS PRODUCT TIP #2
Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals is a leader in the field of dermatologist-formulated lip care products that has been extensively featured in media including Cosmetics Design Asia, for its pioneering approach to skin tone analysis and complementary color analysis for skin of colour. The LipSerum Stick in Gender Neutral Clear is one of our bestselling products in the pharmacy and is highly recommended for lip treatment and prevention of dry, chapped lips, It contains a hydrating phytoceramide formula that prevents lip eczema, also treating discolouration, wrinkles and loss of volume that can be liberally applied to lips several times a day.
Use a neutral or lightly tinted hydrating lip balm or serum in the day before you apply lipcolor
To fully protect your lips, especially if you wear strong lip colors regularly and for long hours, you should hydrate your lips first with a serum before applying the color lipstick. The ideal lipstick should be one that also has hydrating dermocosmetic properties, but in the case that you are using a regular lipstick, it would reduce the drying effects of intensely pigmented lipsticks.
BEST LIP TREATMENT FOR DRY LIPS PRODUCT TIP #3
The Ultra Intensive Lip Plumper is our best-selling lip plumper that also works as an intensive overnight treatment for dry lips. Fortified with grape seed oil and hyaluronic acid, this delivers a potent anti-aging concoction to your lips everytime you apply it.
DIY a night lip treatment mask
Apply your choice of lip treatment by leaving on your favorite lip balm or plumper overnight. For an added boost of moisture, I would recommend implementing the wet occlusion technique in the form using a wet textile over the plumper. It can be as straightforward as a wet cotton towel or you could use a special material designed to increase absorption, I.e. polysaccharides are a natural plant material known to enhance absorption of topicals.
Final thoughts
This 3-step regimen has been used by my patients who suffer from either aging or dehydrated lips as part of a comprehensive home lip care regimen, starting with exfoliation and emphasis on day time hydration, completed by an intensive overnight leave-on treatment. Where possible, choose skincare makeup. If you suffer from dry lips, It’s also helpful to monitor the hydration levels.
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Did you know that the best foam cleanser for oily skin is one that actually shouldn’t dry out your skin? In this week’s tutorial I’m going to spill the beans on how to harmonize oily skin from the outside in. Download your complimentary worksheet here.
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Top criteria for choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin
Foam texture
Amino acid surfactant OR botanical emulsifier i.e. soy, honey, saponins (plant-derived soaps)
Moisturising actives i.e. glycerin
Low alkalinity
When it comes to my top criteria for choosing a face wash or foam cleanser for oily skin, it boils down to the following. Firstly, one with a foam texture is generally going to leave oily skin feeling cleaner, and is going to be more satisfying from an end-user perspective. However, we know that most surfactants that produce a foam tend to be highly alkaline, thus disrupting the general acidic pH of skin.
For this reason, I recommend choosing a cleanser that is based on an amino acid surfactant OR a botanical emulsifier i.e. soy, honey, saponins (soap-like substance naturally found in plants). It is a bonus if moisturising actives i.e. glycerin can be included in the formulation, as it can repair the skin barrier.
The Science Behind
Choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin isn’t just a matter of the most expensive brand, it’s the formulation that counts. Many drugstore foam cleansers may be easy on the wallet, but the fact is they actually harm the skin barrier.
At puberty onset hormones are secreted
Testosterone causes surge in oil gland activity
Excess oil production when sebaceous glands fail to regulate
The science behind oily skin is fairly straightforward. Oil is actually a natural emollient which helps to strengthen and repair the skin barrier. The trouble is when there is an imbalance between oil secretion and the actual barrier needs of skin—the mismatch occurs when there is faulty signalling. At the onset of puberty, that’s when hormones are secreted.
Specifically, it is testosterone that causes a surge in oil gland activity, this is beneficial in most cases, especially if one suffers from dry skin conditions such as eczema. Many eczema sufferers find their condition improving after puberty. However, the trouble with excess oil production is when sebaceous glands fail to regulate the amount secreted, hence worsening symptoms in those who are already acne-prone.
What causes oily skin?
To better understand how to choose the best foam cleanser for oily skin, we must first examine the root cause.
Why? Largely genetic, can be caused by misuse of products I.e. astringent skincare
As to what causes oily skin, dermatologists generally consider it to be a largely genetic issue. However it is noteworthy that oily skin can also be caused by misuse of skincare products I.e. astringent skincare that contains alcohol, salicylic or alpha hydroxy acids. While many of these actives can be considered therapeutic, daily use of these ingredients in a face wash for instance can cause skin barrier damage.
Why treat oily skin?
Oily skin be embarrassing due to the high-shine appearance of the complexion
Can be a symptom of acne vulgaris and induce comedone formation
Can be uncomfortable i.e sticky sensation in humid climates
Increase inflammation of skin, accelerates inflammaging
Can cause makeup to wear off quickly
Choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin must include a consideration of how effective the formula is for alleviating symptoms.
In my opinion the symptoms of oily skin must always be treated appropriately. For one, symptoms can be highly embarrassing. The high-shine appearance of the complexion for instance isn’t merely a cosmetic concern, it can be inconvenient if it leads to makeup wearing off rapidly, besides being a thoroughly uncomfortable sensation. In addition, oily skin can be a symptom of acne vulgaris and can also induce comedone formation. Those living in humid climates will also find the sticky sensation quite disturbing. A lesser known fact is that excessively oily complexions are prone to increased skin inflammation, thus accelerating the inflammaging process.
Terms to know
Hyperseborrhea
TEWL (Trans-Epidermal Water Loss)
Sebaceous glands
Paradoxical reactive hyperseborrhea
The ideal foam cleanser for oily skin respects all the factors that make up the delicate skin micro-climate.
Some important terms to know when discussing oily skin are the following. Hyperseborrhea refers to a state of excess oil production, and is often associated with acne.
TEWL which stands for Trans-Epidermal Water Loss is the normal evaporative process that occurs due to water loss via the skin barrier, one that is influenced by environmental factors.
Sebaceous glands are the correct medical terminology for oil glands, the glands closely associated with your hair follicles which cover every inch of skin apart from your palms and soles.
Paradoxical reactive hyperseborrhea is the phenomenon of excess oil production that arises from the use of astringent skincare products such as harsh cleansers. When stripped of natural protective oils, the skin barrier feels dehydrated and sends signals to the oil glands, almost as a cry for help. This ultimately leads skin to compensate by producing even more oil.
FAQ How about foam cleansers for combination & dry skin types?
Those with dry skin will do well to avoid chemical surfactant based lathering face washes altogether, instead they should opt for gentle cleansers such as oil-emulsion type face washes. Those with combination skin can reduce the amount of cleanser used over the drier areas such as the cheeks if they find their skin getting dehydrated. The same rules for choosing a cleanser applies.
Wondering which is the best foam cleanser for oily skin? Dermatologists generally recommend cleansers which have low alkalinity, in order to minimize skin barrier damage.
Combi/normal/oily skin:
When is a 2 step only skincare routine possible for daytime routine (skipping makeup removal)?
We are used to hearing about the three-step skincare routine. Cleanse-Tone-Moisturise has been the classic mantra since the 90s—double cleansing became a thing in the last decade or so, though many skincare experts have long advocated the double-cleanse I.e. oil cleansing followed by foam cleansing.
So here’s how to skip the double cleansing step
Even if you wear makeup, it is possible to technically skip the double cleanse. The hack here is to use a microfibre textile that can physically pick up the makeup particles as a way to “attract” the pigment, which results in makeup removal with water as a solvent alone.
Bonus cleansing tip with foam cleanser for oily skin types
The best way to use a foaming cleanser only for one-step cleansing is to pair it with a handheld pore vacuum or a sonic cleansing device. Here’s how you do it, first, apply a sufficient amount of cleanser on damp skin, forehead, nose and chin I.e. the T zone may require special attention for those with combination-oily skin. It is important to choose a dermatologist-recommended gentle cleanser with hydrating properties & antioxidants.
I would generally avoid cleansers with AHAs and BHAs if you have any history of sensitivity, or live in a summer climate. An alternative is to use these only on a weekly basis, definitely not as a daily face wash. Using the device of your choice, glide the pore vacuum/spatula over the entire face, focusing on the oily parts of face with two passes instead of one, and skipping areas that feel dry/irritated
It isn’t just about choosing the best foam cleanser for oily skin, the tip here is to correctly pair it with a cleansing device to make the process more efficient.
HOW TO PAIR CLEANSING DEVICES WITH YOUR FOAM CLEANSER
There are 2 main types of sonic cleansing devices: the spatula style which is used in clinics offering the korean medifacial and the silicone brush head which is marketed mainly for home use. I would recommend the spatula style for the following reasons:
Hygiene and ease of use
Less skin irritation on sensitive skin
Choose dual function settings reverse blade models which allow
Cleansing
Infusion
The best practices when choosing cleansing devices for an efficient skincare routine include: the ideal formulation for a face wash or foam cleanser for oily skin, appropriate amounts that are used and also optimisation with cleansing devices.
KEY PRINCIPLE BEHIND FACIAL CLEANSING DEVICES
The most efficient way to compress the double cleansing ritual and in fact make the steps go further for you is to incorporate cleansing devices. Essentially, devices help to physically exfoliate dead skin cells at the same time cleansing skin. Additionally, the pairing of actives such as antioxidants in the cleanser can help regulate the skin microenvironment. Finally, devices using microdermabrasion or hydrodermabrasion technology enhances absorption of the actives via transdermal delivery. For optimal results, choose specifically formulated cleansers like the Miel Honey Cleanser.
Dermatologist’s Top Tip #1: Best Foam Cleanser for Oily Skin
Choose dermatologist-recommended gentle cleanser with hydrating properties & antioxidants
Apply appropriate amount of cleanser on damp skin
Glide the pore vacuum over oily parts of face, skipping areas that feel dry/irritated
Choose dermatologist-recommended gentle cleanser with hydrating properties & antioxidants
Apply appropriate amount of cleanser on damp skin
Glide the pore vacuum over oily parts of face, skipping areas that feel dry/irritated
Dermatologist’s oily skin cleansing tips: how to freshen up quickly
Those with oily skin may wish to avoid blotting papers as this can further dehydrate the skin barrier and worsen paradoxical hyperseborrhea. Instead, facial mists can be used as an on-the-go, quick cleansing step throughout the day. Those with oily skin can also help to regulate their skin microenvironment with the antioxidants and barrier repair actives in hydrating facial mists.
BONUS EXERCISE: CASE STUDY OF IDEAL CLEANSER TO USE WITH PORE VACUUM OR SONIC CLEANSING DEVICE
Are you a budding skincare formulator? For a complete course on skincare formulation and actives, get the Skincare & Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary which includes detailed case studies from board-certified dermatologist and chief scientific officer of Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, Asia’s leading beauty KOL Dr Teo Wan Lin
The must-have skincare ingredients handbook with the latest in bacterial ferment filtrates, aquaporin regulators and granactive retinoids. Created for skin experts, this book is jam-packed with core and specialised cosmetic formulation secrets by the chief scientific officer of leading Asian clinical skincare brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals. Includes resources for creating a custom skincare line catered for small business owners or DIY beauty enthusiasts.
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The Skincare Decoded book is a 3-in-1 special edition, comprising the Skincare Bible and the workbook in a single reference textbook, plus a full suite of online materials including digital slide show access, and expert workshops on the skin barrier. For a limited time only, get the best-selling Skincare and Medifacial Expert course by Skin Masters Academy on Udemy for FREE with every purchase of this textbook on Amazon.
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Examples of what you will learn in this crash course
On-Demand Workshop on Skincare Routine Steps
@drteowanlin SKINCARE DECODED: COMPLETE SKINCARE COURSE FOR EXPERTS On-Demand Workshop on Skincare Routine Steps Welcome to The Slide Show with Dr.TWL Episode 2, where we present skin science in bite-sized formats. Today we will be covering the first, fundamental step in skincare routines, makeup removal. Makeup removal What are the two main formulation options for makeup removers? The first is a micellar formulation. The second, an oil-based cleanser or an emulsion, sometimes known as a “milk” cleanser. I will go through the pros and cons of each but first let us define some terms. How does micellar water work? Micellar water works by hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving) properties of a micelle. The makeup residue is attracted to the water-hating aspect, this is best thought of as a ball that is wrapped up which continues to roll on skin grabbing the residual pigment and dirt. To remove the ball which is a micelle, you use a cotton pad. Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin. What is the downside to oil cleansers? Pure oil cleansers are often too greasy, my choice is an emulsion or a milk cleanser. Milk cleansers are oil in water formulations, the oil component dissolves makeup pigments and removes excess sebum. The “like for like” principle here is that oil soluble pigments are dissolved in a similar substance—an oil in water emulsion. What is the difference between emulsion vs oil cleansers? The benefits of an emulsion are that it is less greasy than pure oil formulations. It is also effective as a humectant if formulated with moisturising ingredients. When you physically rub off the makeup on a cotton pad, the oil component protects your skin. It acts as a barrier between the cotton pad and skin, hence reducing friction unlike with micellar solution. Dermatologist skincare Singapore Dermatologist recommended skincare Best serum Singapore Best dermatologist skincare Singapore #skincareroutine#skincareactives#skincareactives101#oilcleansing#skincareingredients#skincareingredient#singaporedoctor#dermatologist#singaporedoctors#skincare#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct#dermdoctor#learningsfun#learnontiktok♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
Welcome to The Slide Show with Dr.TWL Episode 2, where we present skin and skincare science in bite-sized formats decoded for you. Today we will be covering the first, fundamental step in skincare routines, makeup removal.
Skincare Decoded:Makeup removal
What are the two main formulation options for makeup removers?
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Makeup Removal for Skin - 27
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The first is a micellar formulation. The second, an oil-based cleanser or an emulsion, sometimes known as a “milk” cleanser. I will go through the pros and cons of each but first let us define some terms.
How does micellar water work?
Makeup Removal for Skin - 31
Makeup Removal for Skin - 32
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Micellar water works by hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving) properties of a micelle. The makeup residue is attracted to the water-hating aspect, this is best thought of as a ball that is wrapped up which continues to roll on skin grabbing the residual pigment and dirt. To remove the ball which is a micelle, you use a cotton pad. Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin.
What is the downside to oil cleansers?
Makeup Removal for Skin - 34
Makeup Removal for Skin - 35
Pure oil cleansers are often too greasy, my choice is an emulsion or a milk cleanser. Milk cleansers are oil in water formulations, the oil component dissolves makeup pigments and removes excess sebum. The “like for like” principle here is that oil soluble pigments are dissolved in a similar substance—an oil in water emulsion.
What is the difference between emulsion vs oil cleansers?
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Makeup Removal for Skin - 37
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The benefits of an emulsion are that it is less greasy than pure oil formulations. It is also effective as a humectant if formulated with moisturising ingredients. When you physically rub off the makeup on a cotton pad, the oil component protects your skin. It acts as a barrier between the cotton pad and skin, hence reducing friction unlike with micellar solution.
“Skincare Decoded is created for skincare professionals. A compilation of the original Skincare Bible: Dermatologist’s Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare with the interactive course workbook I developed to guide effective learning. ” Dr Teo Wan Lin, dermatologist and founder of the Beauty Bible Series by Dr.TWL®.
Skincare Decoded – The Ultimate Skincare Textbook by Dr.TWL
Achieve Beautiful Skin With Dr.TWL’s Beauty Bible Series
The updated edition complete with esthetician pearls and online workshop access. In this course, board certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin shares her medi-facial and skincare secrets, based on solid foundational principles of restoring and repairing the skin microbiome. Learn from a world-renowned dermatologist based on a curriculum specifically designed for aestheticians and dermatology physician assistants.
Principles of skincare regimes backed by the latest evidence
Cosmetic science behind skincare vehicles
Tell the differences between serums, lotions and creams
Personalise a skincare routine
A section of the Skincare Decoded book features FAQ style learning segment of broad dermatological principles. A complete course created by Dr Teo Wan Lin, international beauty KOL and host of Asia’s premier beauty podcast Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty that has collaborated with top industry names like the AMORE-Pacific group, Eucerin, Dior Beauty, Skinceuticals, FOREO and the Loreal group.
Digital Skincare Workshop Syllabus:
Concepts in dermatological science
Skin disorders & cosmetic effects
At-Home facial tips
Skincare fundamentals – cleansing
Masking better
How did Skincare Decoded come about?
The Skincare Decoded edition combines Skincare Bible: Dermatologist’s Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare by board-certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin, with a companion workbook as well as standalone Skin Masters Academy foundational lecture series access. This book is a trusted tome of skincare advice that has been widely quoted by beauty writers in international media such as CNN Philippines.
Besides the readily accessible style of the original Q & A style skincare bible, this title contains interactive skin science based worksheets that takes you through each chapter with a step by step, systematic approach.
What you get:
Dedicated self-test sections plus answer key
Worksheets accompany illustrations for visual learners
Answer difficult skincare questions like an expert
At-a-glance concept maps
Fill in the blanks
Mind maps and index cards
Your ideal companion for on the go quick learning and revision.
Skincare Decoded—Get this Book!
This skincare and facial expert course is perfect for:
Salon owners, beauticians, aestheticians
Master skincare expertise and basic dermatology conditions
Offer facials that work; avoid those that don’t
Learn the Science of Beauty and the Art of Skincare Routines from the skincare expert herself
Beauty entrepreneurs
Beauty bloggers, influencers, thought leaders
What you’ll learn
Complete Skincare Routine—Intermediate to Advanced / Expert Levels
Double Cleansing + Sonic Cleansing
Toners/Lotions + Pore Treatment
Serums + Face Oils
Moisturiser Types: Lotions, Creams, Ointments and Face Mists
Advice on tailoring fail-proof/irritation-free skincare regimens for clients for greater customer satisfaction
Skincare truly can be simple. The best way to conceptualise how skincare affects the skin is really as straightforward as how water interacts with skin. Beauty marketing and buzzwords like “science of beauty” sometimes intimidate users who just want a simple way, a basic skincare routine to care for their skin, for skin health.
My first goal is really to show you the simplicity of a basic skincare routine. Let’s build on what we all already know well: water is fundamental to life on earth. It could not ring truer for the skin. Starting with cleansing, which everyone intuitively does, whether with water alone or with a cleanser (which is preferred). Water is a universal solvent, this means that any cleaning process begins with water. The concepts of surface tension are at play when one uses facial cleansers as surfactants to remove dirt, grime and bacteria.
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The basis of healthy skin is a healthy microbiome. The microbiome is the balance of good and bad bacteria essential to the intricate daily functionings of healthy skin cells. Eczema patients have a disturbance of the microbiome with staphylococcus aureus, otherwise a harmless commensal, becoming pathogenic and causing worsening flare ups with infections. Acne sufferers also have been found to have a microbiome imbalance, Cutibacterium acnes is the chief culprit. Again it is commonly found on the skin of healthy individuals as well.
Cleansers also play an important role in rebalancing oil production. Contrary to what many oily skin sufferers may intuitively believe, cleansing is not to remove oil! Rather, cleansing should focus on restoring the ideal skin microenvironment which ensures that sebum production is regulated. Oily skin is caused by sebum production in overdrive. This is the reason why you should never use harsh astringents to dry out oily skin. You will likely experience even oilier skin- reactive seborrhea is real. Rather, opt for a gentle cleanser. Botanicals can be infused as natural emulsifiers which helps it foam up without or with less laureth sulfates.
Asian Toner Moisturiser Hack for a Basic Skincare Routine
Heard of the classic 3-step basic skincare routine of cleanse, tone and moisturise? Well, Asian beauty products pack more complexity into each step, while keeping it minimal. In the early 2000s, the story of SKII’s Pitera essence came to epitomise Asian beauty’s obsession with toning essences based on rice water. The science does support using toning essences with non-astringent actives, in contrast to its western counterpart where alcohol, salicylic acid are incorporated to reduce sebum and tighten pores. These toning essences are really moisturising solutions delivered in a water base. Water itself is an ideal toner, without alcohol.
@drtwlderma All in 1 facial toning essence UNIVERSAL TONER BEAUTY ESSENCE- CUSTOMISABLE Conscious Beauty Cleansing Range •Good for Skin, Great for the Planet• 100% recyclable packaging with airless spray pump. 0% product wastage + full skin penetration. Treats enlarged pores and regulates sebum production with pharmaceutical plant extracts. Controls root cause of oil production with hydrating humectant polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid Suitable for all skin types including dry/combination/oily skin with additional anti-aging benefits. Used in TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre to treat enlarged pores and irregular skin texture/pigmentation. #facialtoner#facialessence#dermatologist#sgdoctor#dermatologistskincare#fyp♬ Ballet song like "Waltz of flowers" _3 minutes(965255) – yulu-ism project
When infused with antioxidants, the toning/moisturising process becomes an efficient 2 in 1 basic skincare routine step replacing the traditional separate tone and moisturise steps. Skipping a cream moisturiser is perfectly acceptable especially for those with combination/oily skin types in the daytime. Whilst you may have heard of dermatologists saying to never skip moisturiser, the fine print here is that Asian skincare products like the toner essence does itself contain heavy duty moisturising ingredients like glycerin, polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid. The same is not true for toners in the traditional cleanse/tone/moisturise regimen.
Never forget sunblock in a Basic Skincare Routine
While it is all true that Asian beauty idolises fair skin (for better or for worse), the message is pretty consistent with modern day sun protection advocacy. The downside to Asian beauty’s obsession with fair skin is the dangerous practice of skin whitening with harmful bleaching agents. Otherwise, the good in Asian society’s desire to keep fair skinned is apparent in the sun avoidance strategies practised by most of the population. It is clear from dermatological research that UV radiation increases oxidative stress which ultimately reduces the skin cell’s ability to repair damaged cells. This first of all manifests as skin ageing but ultimately leads to increased risk of skin cancers.
Some basic skincare routine principles to follow here are – choose a minimum SPF of 30. SPF 50 is the industry standard for dermatologist recommended sunscreens. However, higher SPFs are not meaningful, because it does not obviate the need to reapply sunscreen 3-hourly for example. Broad spectrum sunscreen that blocks out both UVA and UVB rays are the medical standard. Physical sunscreen tends to be less allergenic for those with sensitive skin. However, the chunky texture and whitish cast is cosmetically unappealing. For this reason, most facial sunscreens are a mix of chemical and physical sunscreen actives. These perform well on both a functional and cosmetic level.
Asian formulated sunscreens have highly distinct properties compared to their western counterparts. For one, formulations catering to the Asian market have a less distinct white cast which shows up prominently on darker Asian complexions. The addition of functional ingredients is notable with K-beauty sunscreen formulas. These have an added anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can boost UV protection and enhance DNA repair.
The Asian Beauty Edit & the A,B,Cs…C-Beauty, J-Beauty, K-Beauty
We’ve covered the principles of basic skincare and now time for the Asian beauty spin. As a dermatologist looking up the historical and modern perspectives on Asian beauty – I find the following points pertinent to the scope of this book, Asian Beauty Secrets—Korean Skin Cycling with Plant-based Natural Ingredients:
Ethnobotany was practised as traditional therapy for dermatological conditions. Active herbs were delivered in skincare for treatment of acne, eczema and psoriasis.
The beginnings of the Gut-Skin connection. Way before science demonstrated that antioxidants in certain foods were helpful in fighting inflammation – the ancient Chinese women were obsessed with herbal teas as the elixir of youth. Mung beans, snow fungus were all incorporated as dietary beauty elixirs- a modern concept we now call nutraceuticals.
Gua Sha and jade rollers began to epitomise Asian beauty in the last decade, as modern science uncovered how these traditional rituals were indeed assisting in lymphatic drainage and enhancing collagen stimulation.
Beyond a basic skincare routine, these are the same concepts which will be considered in an intermediate-advanced skincare regimen laid out below:
I like to use a time based method to classify the different “levels” of the ideal skincare regimen. After all, time is the chief concern for many. “I don’t have time to do this 5 step regimen,” “I’m too busy”… one rarely hears that one is too busy to eat or sleep. This allegory aptly highlights the importance of skin nutrition. Sadly, many people only realise this after they develop a skin condition.
The societal idea of beauty must progress to that of skin health, instead of aesthetic standards. In turn, our understanding of skin health must be closely tied in with skin immune function. As with all organs, the skin is a complex living organism that has a host of germs called the microbiome co-existing on its surface.
Mechanisms involving cell communication are at work daily keeping skin resilient and free from damage. Skin health interventions then must move away from meeting aesthetic standards, but towards developing an inner resilience. Empowering skin cells to do what they are designed to, helping them develop their fullest potential.
An effective basic skincare routine is like good counsel. Creating the ideal microenvironment that enhances cell talk, teamwork and dynamic interactions. Cell talk refers to the various signals that occur between cells that enable physiological processes to function properly. Ageing, skin damage and various dermatological conditions arise from a breakdown in cell communication.
It may be daunting to start with a 9 step skincare regimen if you are new to skincare. Think of it like learning a new recipe or a skill. You always have to start from the basics! The good news is, you will progress and get more efficient at your routine eventually, saving you time and effort. What I advocate here is essentially second nature to many of my patients. However, this explanation of the different levels of skincare routines I recommend should help you progressively develop the understanding and skills to care for your skin. No aesthetician or facialist required!
Once you’ve mastered basic skincare, you will benefit from some understanding of how different skincare products work when progressing to the next level.
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You may already be aware of the importance of skin barrier function—how it can affect the condition of the skin, but how exactly? Skin hydration and the stratum corneum barrier have been active areas of dermatologic research for a good decade. Alongside these developments, consumers are beginning to find their interest piqued about the subject, largely because of the marketing campaigns by industry giants. Before you commit to any product or treatment that promises skin barrier repair, I’ll teach you exactly how to navigate industry jargon so you don’t get confused, worse still, foxed by the deluge of claims—beginning with the basic science of skin.
Skin Anatomy And Physiology
Figure 1.1: Diagram showing structure of skin
The skin is made up of 3 layers – epidermis, dermis and hypodermis (otherwise known as ‘subcutis’ or ‘panniculus’).
The epidermis has 5 layers – stratum corneum, stratum granulosum (granular cell layer), stratum spinosum (spiny layer) and stratum basale (basal cell layer) from the outermost to the innermost layer.
This outermost layer of the skin consists mainly of keratinocytes, cells which produce a protein called keratin that is a key structural material in the hair, skin and nails. These cells mature over a two-week life cycle. During these two weeks, they are first differentiated from epidermal stem cells in the basal cell layer and are further differentiated as they move upwards towards the epidermis. At the end of the 28-day cycle, they are shed off after reaching the stratum corneum.
The dermis has 2 layers – the papillary dermis and reticular dermis. It mainly consists of fibroblasts, collagen and elastic fibers.
The final layer of the skin called hypodermis is where the adipose tissue (fats) lie.
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Figure 1.2: Diagram showing skin structure
Concept Of Skin Function And Importance of Skin Barrier Repair
1. Skin barrier function – the skin acts as a physical barrier between the internal and external environments to retain moisture and protect the skin against mechanical, chemical and microbial injury; dysfunction of the skin barrier may result in injury, dehydration, infection and inflammation
2. Immunologic – the skin senses and responds to pathogens; dysfunction of the immunologic barrier may result in infection, allergy, inflammatory skin conditions and in the worst case scenario, could lead to skin cancer
3. Temperature regulation – the skin maintains a constant body temperature by regulating heat loss in the form of sweat production, with insulating properties of fat and hair and with a dense superficial microvasculature; the failure to maintain a constant body temperature could lead to hyper- or hypothermia
The second edition of the skincare bible includes specialised Focus Tutorialson two new modules Skin Resilience & Skin Barrier Repair with extended question and answer practice for advanced practitioners.
4. Protection from radiation – a dark pigment in the epidermis called melanin protects the skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation; disruption of the production of melanin increases the risk of skin cancer
5. Nerve sensation – the skin constantly monitors the environment through sensory receptors and mechanoreceptors found in the skin; dysfunction in the nerve sensation may lead to pruritus, dysesthesia (an abnormal sensation) and insensitivity to injury (as in the case of diabetes and leprosy)
6. Injury repair – the skin has the ability to repair cutaneous wounds in four phases: coagulation, inflammatory, proliferative-migratory (tissue formation) and remodelling; the loss of this ability results in delayed wound healing (e.g. post-radiation treatment)
7. Appearance and quality of life – besides medical conditions, deteriorations to the skin such as skin defects or physiological ageing can lead to psychological distress (e.g. lipoatrophy and vitiligo);
Skin diseases can all be localised to a problem when any one of these functions of skin are disrupted and will be covered in the following chapters.
The Skincare Bible: Strategic Blueprint for Resilient Skin teaches you the art and science of skin barrier repair.
Skin Barrier Repair And Hydration
You may have heard about the term ‘skin barrier’, which in scientific terms is more accurately referred to as the ‘stratum corneum barrier’. How important is the skin’s barrier function and how exactly does it work?
Skin hydration and the stratum corneum barrier have been active areas of dermatological research for many years. In the last 5 years, commercial companies have started to market their skincare to address this. Before you commit to any product or treatment that promises to skin barrier repair, have a read on to understand what these terms and processes mean.
The Stratum Corneum Skin Barrier
The skin barrier primarily prevents foreign material from entering the human body. But it also does more than just that. It prevents water loss and serves as a shield against the environment. The barrier works to maintain the body’s homeostasis (or stable equilibrium) level, without which the entire body’s organ systems will shut down. The loss of water from the body through evaporation from the surface of the skin is known as Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), thus a need to maintain hydration of the superficial cells, known as corneocytes.
Corneocytes are the cells found in the stratum corneum layer, the outermost layer of the epidermis. These cells are formed through cornification, where the skin cells develop tough protective layers or structures, ultimately creating a physical barrier for the skin. When deprived of moisture, dry skin easily develops cracks, fissures and is more susceptible to environmental changes such as the weather.
Ambient humidity also affects the corneocytes. As the level of environmental humidity varies, corneocytes acclimatise by drawing water up from the deeper layer of skin cells, in order to maintain equilibrium with the environment. This explains why our skin feels drier in winter.
Skin Hydration
Skin hydration is a critical factor in attaining healthy skin and a measure of any effective skin barrier repair. A mixture of water-soluble compounds called natural moisturising factor (NMF) have been found to affect water content levels. The arrangement of lipids (fats) in the stratum corneum is also important, as it serves as an effective barrier to the passage of water through the layer. A poor arrangement or deficiency in the corneocyte “cement” can lead to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). TEWL occurs as water diffuses and evaporates from the skin surface. While this is a physiological process, excess TEWL is undesirable as it can lead to excessively dry skin.
Achieve healthy, radiant skin inside-out—based on principles of skin barrier repair for resilience.
TEWL and Moisturisers
TEWL has been one of the most commonly used methods in dermatology research to measure skin hydration as it directly correlates with skin barrier dysfunction. Healthy skin would score a low TEWL value as it would mean less water loss.
In the same vein, most moisturisers are put to the test by using TEWL values. A good moisturiser should help decrease TEWL. Moisturisers have remained as a ‘staple’ in basic skincare. Yet, not many may fully understand its function, thus leading to confusion in choosing a suitable moisturiser for their skin needs. An effective moisturiser should protect the skin by stimulating and augmenting its natural barrier function for holistic skin barrier repair, creating the perfect microenvironment for skin healing. Moisturisers will slow downskin ageing as a result.
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polysaccharide mask
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skin bioanalyzer uses
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What happens if the water content of the stratum corneum falls below a desirable level? Normal desquamation is not able to take place, that is the shedding of the outermost skin layer. With insufficient hydration, skin cells will adhere to one another and accumulate on the surface layer. Visible changes associated with this phenomenon include dryness, roughness, scaling and flaking.
Certain cosmetic ingredients such as ceramide, glycerol (also known as glycerin) and hyaluronic acid have gained prominence in recent years by targeting the stratum corneum water content. How do these work?
Ceramide for Skin Barrier Repair
Figure 1.3: Diagram showing brick and mortar skin barrier model
Ceramides are best understood as the cement joining bricks of a wall together. Genetically, people with sensitive/eczema skin types have deficient ceramide content. Additionally, one’s skin barrier can be damaged by the use of harsh cleansers containing laureth sulfates, over-washing or just due to ageing and hormonal influences such as menopause. The use of ceramides in moisturisers is crucial in preventing and repairing skin barrier dysfunction.
@drteowanlin Ceramide benefits in moisturizer for dry skin Improve skin hydration Reduce water loss from skin Increase skin’s natural ceramides Anti-inflammatory Beneficial for those with eczema, or atopic dermatitis Most ceramides beauty brands refer to are synthetic or animal sources, i.e. bovine in origin—which is also a concern for those preferring a vegan lifestyle. Dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin’s top pick for ceramides is a lesser-known subtype known as phytoceramides. These are botanically derived from plant seed oils and the most prominent phytoceramide of all is shea butter. Derived from the shea tree, shea butter provides a rich source of natural origin plant-based ceramides that can repair the skin barrier effectively. Benefits of phytoceramide skincare Enhance hydration better than synthetic ceramide Improve the recovery rate of damaged stratum corneum Improved immunity Anti-inflammatory #dryskin#moisturiser_for_dryskin#moisturisertreatment#sgskincare#dermatologytiktok#sgtoktok#sgdoctor#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
Glycerol for Skin Barrier Repair
This ingredient exists in the stratum corneum as a humectant. It has been demonstrated that changes in the stratum corneum’s water content correlate with the glycerol content in the layer. Such results have driven the development of glycerol-containing moisturisers since decades ago. Check the ingredient list of your moisturiser, this is a fundamental ingredient which should appear in any basic, effective moisturiser used for skin barrier repair.
Hyaluronic Acid for Skin Barrier Repair
Known chemically as sodium hyaluronate, it is a major component of the dermis (deeper layer of the skin). What is less known is that hyaluronic acid is also present in the outermost layer. It plays an important role in regulating the skin barrier function and hydration. Although the skin care industry may recognise hyaluronic acid as a powerful humectant (it attracts water to hydrate the skin), this molecule also participates in cellular functions. Hyaluronic acid influences cell-cell interactions that lead to normal structure of the skin barrier and hence is critical in skin barrier repair.
Conclusion
Though the mechanisms for skin hydration are complex and beyond the scope of this book, a basic understanding about the skin structure and function is crucial to form the basis for choosing appropriate moisturisers for any skin type. Dermatologist-recommended moisturisers target at least one, if not all of these pathways for effective skin hydration to achieve skin barrier repair. With a myriad of drug-store and luxury beauty brands available, it is a useful guide to determine what may be worth your dollar for your basic moisturiser.
Moisturising is a basic step in a skincare routine after cleansing which every one should incorporate. That aside, if you are looking to up your current skincare routine, cosmeceuticals are the buzzword amongst dermatologists. A combination of ‘cosmetics’ and ‘pharmaceuticals’,cosmeceuticals are products with bioactive ingredients that can bring benefits to skin health including skin barrier repair, and are prescribed as adjuncts to anti-ageing treatment.
Want to learn how to DIY facials and skincare products according to your skin type? This is a one-of-a-kind beauty handbook that spills the beans on dermatologist-formulated facials and home-made skincare recipes that actually work! Let Dr.TWL teach you how to look your best with these at-home skincare secrets through step-by-step protocols designed for sustainable habit-building.
We will be covering the science behind how the skin around the eyes differs from other parts of facial skin before moving on to home remedies that may alleviate common concerns. Here is an outline of the treatment protocol for the eye area.
Cold therapy for reducing congestion and inflammation in skin around the eyes
The undereye area is especially prone to pigmentation because of thinner skin compared to the rest of facial skin. The underlying blood vessels tend to show up more prominently. Sometimes the blood cells may leak a pigment known as hemosiderin, which appears as a brownish deposit on skin. Applying cold therapy constricts the blood vessels and reduces the development of pigmentation.
Barrier repair to improve barrier function in skin around the eyes
The key here is to use a hypoallergenic ceramide dominant moisturiser (no fancy eye creams necessary) and to use wet occlusion to increase absorption via the stratum corneum.
Antioxidants to brighten skin around the eyes
For the delicate undereye area, I caution against using vitamin C or other types of antiaging serums designed for facial skin unless specially formulated for the eye area. I would especially avoid using any products containing acids i.e. AHA, BHA or retinols as these generally cause irritation over a period of time even if tolerated well at first. Instead, I will be recommending plant products which you can find in your pantry which are also safe for use around the eye area.
Massage to improve epidermal and dermal elasticity/strength in skin around the eyes
This helps to improve circulation and the massaging action also stimulates blood flow to prepare for absorption of actives. In addition, massage has been proven to stimulate collagen production and helps to lift sagging aged skin.
What you will need
Thin slices of cucumber (freshly sliced, refrigerated)
Silicone patch designed for eye area OR cut your own from medical grade silicone
Skin icing tool i.e. metallic alloys designed for cold compresses preferred to reduce the risk of frost-bite (users should self-test depending on their freezer temperature, manufacturers’ instructions to minimise adverse events)
Dr.TWL Night Eye Routine is a 4-in-1 bundle, with the Elixir-V Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream, CUIONS Anti-Aging Sleeping Eye Mask, Jade Roller for Increased Skincare Absorption, and the Qraser Anti-Wrinkle Patch, for your complete sleep eye-wrinkle therapeutics.
Treatment Steps
Start with cleansed face, be mindful when addressing the delicate eye area, I usually would skip cleanser there and focus on the rest of my face
Use the smaller roller end of the jade roller and gently roll back and forth on slightly damp skin for 3 minutes.
Apply a thin slice of refrigerated cut cucumber over skin around both eyes, keep it in place with the cold gel pack for 10-30 minutes. If you are worried about the pieces shifting, you can wear a sleeping eye mask over the gel pack
Apply a generous amount of moisturiser, massage in gently. Ensure it does not get into the eyes
Dark circles
Undereye pigmentation can be due to genetic factors, aging skin and sleep deprivation. The skin around the eyes is thinner than that of facial skin. This means that the underlying blood vessels is likely to show prominently compared to other areas of the face.
Sleep deprivation is a well known cause of dark eye circles, partly also because the eyes easily show signs of fatigue as well. Aging causes thinning of both the epidermis and the dermis, the effects of which become even more prominent at the delicate undereye region. In many cases, undereye hyperpigmentation is genetic and may not improve with any form of treatment. Nevertheless, the treatment protocol I propose here is a holistic approach that tackles the reversible causes of undereye circles.
FUN FACT
Cucumber is a potent source of skin brightening vitamin C, beta carotene, manganese and cucurbitacin D which actively targets hyperpigmentation. Studies show that it decreases melanin content. This treatment utilises cold therapy to reduce inflammation and constricts the blood vessels to minimise the appearance of dark circles
Crows feet, wrinkles
Before step 3, apply 1 tsp of broccoli juice (cold-pressed ideal) by tapping onto the affected areas before applying the cucumber slices. Before step 4, apply the silicone patch for minimum of 2 hours for immediate anti-wrinkle effect before an important event. Alternatively, as part of your regular treatment regimen, you can apply the patch overnight for great efficacy.
Broccoli belongs to the family of brassica oleracea genus of cruciferous plants. It is also a natural source of retinol, coenzyme Q10 and ubiquinone. This makes it a great anti-wrinkle agent which stimulates collagen production in skin.
Eye bags
Eye bags are the toughest to address with regards to treatment of skin around the eyes. Many cases are genetic, though it also occurs as part of aging skin. If advanced, correction may require surgical intervention which is beyond the scope of this book. However, the regimen I prescribed above is especially helpful for prevention when done on a regular basis. Actives like natural retinol tightens skin and reduces the appearance of sagging skin. Sometimes, eye bags can be due to edema, also known colloquially as water retention. In this case, I recommend using a skin icing tool before step 3.
If you are wondering how to treat pigmentation on sensitive skin, this tutorial is for you. Part 2 of the Skincare Formulation Series by Skin Masters Academy brings you the delicate art of treating pigmentation while balancing the needs of sensitive skin.
This series is written for advanced skincare practitioners who are interested in the use of cosmeceuticals including non prescription topicals as adjunct therapy for various cosmetic skin concerns.
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Bite Sized Beauty: At-a-Glance FAQ With Dr.TWL
How do you treat pigmentation on sensitive skin?
The needs of both must be balanced. Sensitive skin is caused by a dysfunctional skin barrier, which means that the superficial corneocytes have lost their ability to adhere together. This results in a leaky epidermis. External allergens can trigger immunological reactions resulting in redness, itch, stinging and flaking. Moreover, ingredients used to treat hyperpigmentation can penetrate deeper and quicker if the barrier is breached. It’s key therefore to choose only non-irritating actives that treat hyperpigmentation. This excludes the use of retinol and retinoids for those with sensitive skin. Vitamin C serum formulations should have low acidity—if possible, choose neutral compounds like sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate instead of L-ascorbic acid based vitamin C serums.
Discover the Skincare & Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary—an entire course workbook and textbook, complete with online lectures created by a board certified dermatologist for advanced skincare practitioners.
Which cream is best for pigmentation skin?
In terms of traditional cosmeceuticals, hydroquinone and retinoid based formulations work best for stubborn pigmentation such as melasma. However, these are particularly tricky to use in sensitive skin types. Hydroquinone is known to breach the skin barrier and also causes a paradoxical rebound phenomenon if used inappropriately. For this reason, dermatologists recommend using hydroquinone based formulations for 6 months maximum—requiring a break in between or there could be a condition known as onchronosis that results. Retinoids are troublesome for those with sensitive skin—they do damage the skin barrier and should be used with care under the supervision of a dermatologist.
Newer non-prescription alternatives have emerged in cosmeceutical research over the years which include melanogenesis blockers like kojic acid, arbutin and novel inhibitors that we will cover at the end of the tutorial.
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Which acid is best for hyperpigmentation for sensitive skin?
Traditional chemical peel acids like salicylic, glycolic and retinol peels can adversely affect the skin barrier of sensitive skin types. Lactic acid is a gentler alternative although newer formulations now include plant enzyme peels like pineapple and papaya derived bromelain and papain respectively. Hydrodermabrasionis a form of physical exfoliation which can also improve the surface quality of sensitive skin types. By the infusion of antioxidant serums that contain plant actives, vitamin C—there can be a simultaneous benefit that targets underlying processes responsible for melanin production.
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In-Depth Skin Science With Dr.TWL
Ready for some skin science? Follow me on IG and TikTok for this brand new series The Slideshow With Dr.TWL.
Physiology of Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is a state of hyper reactivity. Key to understanding this is the concept of barrier function. We already know about the brick wall model of skin, which means that once the skin barrier is damaged, the proteins associated with the structure of this wall also changes. Ultimately, this is what stimulates inflammation, leading to tissue damage. This is further exacerbated by what we call the itch scratch cycle. It is helpful to know that neurological factors play a role when it comes to sensitive skin.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 1: Patch Test
Understand the physiology involved—skin barrier dysfunction is what triggers sensitive skin reactions like itching, redness, flaking and stinging. Knowing what to look out for is important to monitor for adverse reactions when using a new skincare product. Patch testing before using the product on the affected area is key. Use a small amount on an inconspicuous area such as under the jawline and monitor for any adverse reactions overnight.
The Sensitive Skin Model
In dermatology research, the sensitive skin model is what scientists use for testing—essentially a skin model that mimics actual skin barrier damage.
With this, researchers proceeded to investigate the effect of cosmeceuticals on the damaged skin barrier.
@drteowanlin Physiology of Sensitive Skin Sensitive skin is a state of hyper reactivity. Key to understanding this is the concept of barrier function. We already know about the brick wall model of skin, which means that once the skin barrier is damaged, the proteins associated with the structure of this wall also changes. Ultimately, this is what stimulates inflammation, leading to tissue damage. This is further exacerbated by what we call the itch scratch cycle. It is helpful to know that neurological factors play a role when it comes to sensitive skin How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 1: Patch Test Understand the physiology involved—skin barrier dysfunction is what triggers sensitive skin reactions like itching, redness, flaking and stinging. Knowing what to look out for is important to monitor for adverse reactions when using a new skincare product. Patch testing before using the product on the affected area is key. Use a small amount on an inconspicuous area such as under the jawline and monitor for any adverse reactions overnight. #skincareroutine#skincareactives#skincareactives101#skincareingredients#skincareingredient#singaporedoctor#dermatologist#singaporedoctors#skincare#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct#dermdoctor#learningsfun#learnontiktok#sensitiveskin#sensitiveskincare♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist
List of Cosmeceuticals Identified in Research for Sensitive Skin Treatment
The following are a list of extracts that have been identified for its efficacy. We have oat extract, olive leaf extract, brown algae, stachycose and erythritol. These extracts are chosen for
their ability to scavenge free radicals
inhibit hyaluronidase, the enzyme responsible for the breakdown of a hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is an important structural protein in the dermis.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 2: Ingredients to Avoid
Avoid acids and retinol/retinoid products. Many skincare products formulated for the treatment of hyperpigmentation include peel acids like AHAs, BHAs as well as retinols. These damage the skin barrier and are not suitable for treatment of pigmentation on sensitive skin types.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 3: Go Low & Slow
Apply the product in a gradual, incremental manner. Go slow and low. Non-prescription actives have the potential to cause skin irritation as much as prescription actives in sensitive skin types. If you have sensitive skin and are using a low concentration of glycolic, salicylic or lactic acids for treatment of hyperpigmentation, play safe by starting at a once-a-week frequency.
Remember tip 1–which is always begin with patch test first if you have sensitive skin. After that you can proceed to monitor your skin for up to a week after you use the product on the target area. I would then increase frequency at a weekly interval i.e. from once to twice a week, then three times a week, alternate days before using it on a daily or twice daily basis.
Bacterial Ferment Filtrates in Functional Dermatology
I want to now draw your attention to what I call functional filtrates. These refer to bacterial ferments such as those from galactomyces and lactobacillus.
The Origins of the Discovery
Elderly sake brewers were observed to have a wrinkle free, youthful looking skin on their hands which were in constant contact with the sake fermentation process. This was in contrast to their faces which were wrinkled and filled with pigmented spots.
Research on the Sensitive Skin Model
Clinical studies done by scientists then demonstrated that galactomyces and lactobacillus ferment filtrates were able to improve fluctuations in redness, roughness and pore size. They were also helpfil in alleviating mask-induced skin irritation in the era of mask wearing during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The Science behind Bacterial Ferment Filtrates
How exactly do bacterial ferment filtrates work? First of all, they upregulate ceramide production via filaggrin gene expression which is what we know as the key player in healthy skin barrier function. They are also what we consider Tapinarof or TAMA-like. These have been used as alternative therapeutics for inflammatory skin diseases in dermatology like psoriasis and eczema.
Therapeutic Skin Benefits of Ferment Filtrates
Ferment filtrates are nature’s very own TAMAs. Beyond that, bacterial ferments have an inherent antioxidant capacity. This additional antioxidant effect is what neutralises damaging free radicals. One of the ways it does it is by blocking key mechanisms in the process of inflammaging, for instance cell senescence, the process of cells falling asleep. By doing so, we are reducing stress in the skin and enhancing skin cell repair.
Cosmeceuticals containing bacterial ferments also demonstrate increased caspase 14 enzyme expression, which are essentially enzymes that are activated by the phytochemicals present in plant extracts. There is also increased expression of tight junction molecules. These affect the connections between the cells that make up the skin barrier. This ultimately affects the permeability of the barrier and helps to restore healthy skin function.
Are Ferment Filtrates the Answer?
This may be the key to bridging the gap between the needs of hyperpigmentation sufferers and those with coexisting sensitive or reactive skin. Understanding the science behind cosmetic formulations is a start.
In summary, we have discussed the latest research in skin barrier function, the basis for functional dermatology actives that target hyperpigmentation. Ingredients tested on damaged skin models in the laboratory setting can be of significant use to those seeking alternative tyrosinase inhibitors.
Botanicals, phytochemical extracts and bacterial ferment products can target multiple pathways of skin inflammation and reactivity.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 4: Use Moisturiser Liberally
The problem with sensitive skin is that it never seems to break out of the vicious cycle of barrier dysfunction-environmental trigger-immune reaction—all of which result in perpetuation of the itch scratch cycle. Pigmentation is most often at the superficial layers of skin, though in conditions such as melasma it can go deeper in the second layer known as the dermis. Skincare actives that treat pigmentation can penetrate deeper if the skin barrier is breached—though by the same reasoning we can expect an elevated risk of skin irritation. Liberal, frequent use of a ceramide-dominant moisturiser can mitigate this risk.
How to Treat Pigmentation on Sensitive Skin Tip 5: Dedicate Time to Masking Properly
Masking is truly an underrated skincare step. It might sound simple enough, but it works via the basis of wet occlusion therapy—a well founded dermatological principle. In dermatological therapeutics, wet occlusion is an applied technique that helps treat eczema by enhancing absorption of skincare actives. When a wet layer of textile is applied on skin, this improves the permeability of the skin barrier. However, one caveat is that you should use purely hydrating actives in your face mask and avoid retinols, salicylic acids and glycolic acids.
A mask made of polysaccharide offers significant benefits over traditional single use sheet masks. First of all, the dehydrated form means it has a longer shelf-life compared to those infused with facial essences. It is also customisable, meaning that you could use your own moisturiser with it instead of purchasing expensive serums or lotions. On its own, polysaccharides are also an effective moisturising ingredient—they create little pockets or “mini-reservoirs” that trap moisture at the skin surface.
Case Study: Sensitive Skin & Hyperpigmentation
This case study involving an ideal cosmeceutical regimen for those with eczema and coexisting hyperpigmentation can direct of future research in this field.
There are a few keys that form the foundation of such a product. The ideal skincare formula targeting sensitive skin and hyperpigmentation includes ceramides, natural moisturising factors and bacterial ferments which addresses hyperpigmentation. Critically, sensitive skin users ought to go retinol and retinoid free— as these are well known to cause skin irritation.
Beyond that, I am excited to share with you the exciting world of functional dermatology—one that shows the way to alternative tyrosinase inhibitors and novel melanogenesis blockers—each playing a key role in the future of cosmeceuticals.
@drtwl.tv The Acne Sensitive Skin Paradox Acne and sensitive skin can co-exist. It is also especially problematic because acne prone skin tends to be associated with overproduction of sebum, yet we understand skin sensitivity as a problem with dry skin. While it seems paradoxical, such a phenomenon often described as oily-dehydrated skin—can be explained this way. Dry skin isn’t necessarily just dehydrated. We are referring to a disrupted skin barrier —which can occur in the presence of excess oil production. We delve into the science of this paradox in this week’s masterclass on acne skincare routines. Access this free tutorial created as part of the upcoming Skincare Formulation Series, a course created for advanced practitioners. Join Dr.TWL as she imparts her expertise in treating sensitive skin types with advanced skincare routine techniques. Learn to choose cosmeceutical products for non-prescription acne therapy. There are key considerations here which we will go through. I’ll also include a discussion on what to look out for in specific product formulations tailored to remedy such imbalances. Subsrcibe at www.twlskin.com for VIP access! #skincareroutine#skincareactives#skincareactives101#skincareingredients#skincareingredient#singaporedoctor#dermatologist#singaporedoctors#skincare#dermatologist#tiktoksg🇸🇬#skincareroutine#skincaretips#skincare101#skincareproduct#dermdoctor#learningsfun#learnontiktok♬ Epic Inspiration – DM Production
Acne and sensitive skin can co-exist. It is also especially problematic because acne prone skin tends to be associated with overproduction of sebum, yet we understand skin sensitivity as a problem with dry skin. While it seems paradoxical, such a phenomenon often described as oily-dehydrated skin—can be explained this way. Dry skin isn’t necessarily just dehydrated. We are referring to a disrupted skin barrier —which can occur in the presence of excess oil production.
Sign up for our free Skincare Blueprint: Glow Up From Within newsletter to receive our welcome gift pack.
The Acne Sensitive Skin Paradox
We delve into the science of this paradox in this week’s masterclass on acne skincare routines. Access this free tutorial created as part of the upcoming Skincare Formulation Series, a course created for advanced practitioners. Join Dr.TWL as she imparts her expertise in treating sensitive skin types with advanced skincare routine techniques. Learn to choose cosmeceutical products for non-prescription acne therapy.
There are 5 considerations here which we will go through. I’ll also include a discussion on what to look out for in specific product formulations tailored to remedy such imbalances.
1. Breakdown of lipid joints i.e. the “cement” in the brick-mortar model of sensitive skin
The well known brick wall model of skin is used to describe a “leaky epidermis”, referring to skin barrier disruption underlying conditions such as eczema. The joints of the bricks are sealed by lipids, which is produced by healthy skin. While oil production tends to be beneficial for dry skin types, it does not necessarily translate into a healthy skin barrier. The key is a molecule known as ceramide, produced by the endoplasmic reticulum of healthy skin cells.
Genetics affect the quality and quantity of ceramide production. If you have a personal or family history of eczema, you may be at risk of developing both acne and sensitive skin. The surge in the male hormone testosterone at puberty leads to an increase in oil gland activity—this can compensate for skin dryness in many cases. However, if acne sensitive skin care products are used, this can trigger barrier disruption, which brings us to the next point.
Acne sensitive skin product recommendation tips:
Do use a moisturiser even if you have oily skin. Choose a ceramide dominant formula instead of occlusives such as silicone or paraffin if you are acne prone—the latter can increase comedogenesis.
2. Use of astringent skincare products
Traditionally, acne was thought of as simply a condition due to excess oil production. This meant that early recommendations involved using astringent products such as harsh cleansers and toners that dehydrated skin. While the effects are quite instantaneous i.e. the shine does disappear, the problem is more complex than that.
The physical removal of grease does nothing to regulate underlying oil production. In fact, what dermatologists have observed is an increase in oil production—a phenomenon described as paradoxical reactive hyperseborrhea. The same problem arises when astringent toners containing salicylic acid, alcohols are used.
Acne sensitive skin product recommendation tips:
Ceramide moisturisers can be used at night if you are acne prone and live in a humid climate. In the day, a skincare layering method with hyaluronic acid serums and a lightweight moisturising emulsion can help to keep skin hydrated without triggering off acne flare ups.
Instead of toners, choose facial mists with polyglutamic acid and botanicals that helps to boost the skin’s reserve of antioxidants. Research has shown that oxidative stress caused by excess oil production and environmental stressors worsens comedone formation.
3. Inappropriate use of exfoliation methods to treat acne
Another common misconception about acne sensitive skin care routines is that physical exfoliation helps to get rid of comedones. Pesky whiteheads and blackheads are merely a symptom of what’s going on in the deeper layers. Microcomedones begin forming at least 2 weeks before actual comedones surface—so the key is addressing the root cause of inflammation. Harsh exfoliation beads i.e. with sand/grit damage the skin barrier at the level of the epidermis, resulting in red, irritated skin. Superficial exfoliation methods are not able to address the process of microcomedone formation.
Acne sensitive skin product recommendation tips:
Instead of abrasive beads, adopt the J-beauty method of water exfoliation. The water peels popularised by J-beauty brands are based on carbomers which form complexes when applied on skin. These complexes essentially “grab” dirt oil and dead skin cells and are rubbed off skin gently. The benefits of such an exfoliation method are that it automatically adjusts to each individual’s level of skin oiliness. This means that no excess oil will be stripped off skin.
Ditto for the skin cells—only the most superficial dead skin cells ready to be sloughed off will be removed. The ideal natural alternative to synthetic carbomers are polysaccharides present in algae, seaweed and plant material which have additional antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. The resulting effect is a gently exfoliated epidermis, removal of dead skin cells and excess oil—factors that worsen the follicular plugging process in acne pathogenesis.
4. Poorly formulated chemical exfoliation products
Chemical exfoliation methods such as AHAs (glycolic acids) and BHAs (salicylic acids) are helpful as adjunct treatment of acne. Commonly performed in dermatologist’s offices, superficial chemical peels remove dead skin cells that contribute to retention hyperkeratosis. Retention hyperkeratosis refers to the increased deposition of retained keratinocytes, the top most layer of skin cells adhering to the epidermis. This occurs around the hair follicles, AKA the “pores”.
As a result, follicular plugging i.e. pore clogging occurs. Chemical exfoliation is preferred over traditional physical exfoliation methods in general because of its ability to dissolve superficial corneocytes selectively without breaching the protective epidermis. However, the duration of application and formulation of chemical peels matter. For instance, AHAs must be neutralised when used in concentrations of 20% and above—care must also be taken not to leave on the application beyond the prescribed application time.
The challenge is when AHA and BHA containing products are used in home skincare. OTC skincare products are strictly regulated for its acid content, however, this does not always mean that users are reaction-free. Let me explain. Glycolic and salicylic acids do interact with skin immediately and also in the medium to long term. The latter is what is referred to as a cummulative effect. The types of adverse reactions have been described as irritant contact dermatitis and allergic contact dermatitis—the former is much more likely to occur with prolonged use in an acne sensitive skin care routine.
Acne sensitive skin product recommendation tips:
Do choose enzyme peels based on papain or bromelain for home chemical peels. These perform the same functions of microscopic exfoliation, as do traditional AHA/BHA based chemical peels. Additionally, enzyme peels are well suited for sensitive skin types—these whole plant extracts possess anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial benefits while moisturising the skin.
5. Disruption of the microbiome with certain acne medications
Prescription acne medications are required for moderate to severe forms of acne. These include topical and oral forms of retinoids that are really Vitamin A derivatives. Topical retinoid therapy is well-known for disrupting the skin barrier, a side effect due to its rather aggressive exfoliation of superficial skin cells. Oral isotretinoin therapy is reserved for the most severe and/or persistent forms of acne. It remains the most effective form of oral medication for acne as it completely stops sebum production. This however, is not without rather serious adverse events. Cheilitis is a severe form of lip eczema that can lead to bleeding, cracking and infections—it is also a well-known side effect of oral isotretinoin treatment.
What is not spoken about often also is the ability of isotretinoin to disrupt the skin microbiome—the balance of good and bad bacteria on skin. Many of these bacteria are required to maintain healthy skin cell function, cell signaling i.e. cell talk processes that help to regulate sebum production, cell turnover and anti-microbial activity against bad bacteria. Acne sensitive skin conditions such as eczema have been linked to microbiome imbalances as well—microbiome dysbiosis perpetuates the inflammatory cycle that is responsible for persistent flare-ups.
Acne sensitive skin product recommendation tips:
Lactobacillus plus fruit extracts
Rebalancing facial mists are preferred over toners because these are infused with botanical actives that help to encourage a healthy microbiome. The use of bacterial ferments such as lactobacillus plus fruit extracts are a fairly recent development in skincare formulations. These are highly beneficial for stabilising the skin ecosytem—addressing hydration, inflammation and microbial stability.
Dr.TWL’s Tutorial Summary
How to treat acne sensitive skin types
The traditional skin typing methods of oily/combination/dry skin does not address the more complex subtypes of oily-dehydrated skin. We have discussed how this arises from the interaction of certain astringent skincare products with acne prone skin. The best intervention would be in the form of carefully selected acne sensitive skin care products that have dual functions—addressing both issues simultaneously.
The Sensitive Skin Hormonal Acne Complex
Hormonal acne is one of the commonest dermatological conditions afflicting adults—one that is perhaps most distressing as well. While its regarded as treatable, the persistence throughout adulthood also means that a sustainable, long-term approach must be in place. Apart from dermatological care and prescription oral medications in the acute phase, acne sensitive skin care routines that target the various pathways we have described in this tutorial can play a critical role in long term maintenance and prevention.
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Looking for the best acne treatment that’s also dermatologist recommended? Dr.TWL Pharmacy offers a comprehensive range of acne treatments targetting all skin types including sensitive skin. This installment of Skincyclopedia is a mini masterclass on acne brought to you by Dr.TWL Pharmacy—Singapore’s dermatologist-driven specialist pharmacy specialising in over-the-counter acne, pigmentation, sensitive skin and aging skin concerns. The pharmacy’s treatment protocols are formulated according to dermocosmetic principles, manufactured to the highest EUROISO22716 standards.
Welcome to Skincyclopedia, a comprehensive online encyclopedia with new entries weekly on all things skin!
Whether you suffer from comedonal, papular or cystic acne, the pharmacy’s dermatologist formulated acne care protocols are designed to treat troubled skin from its root with natural ingredients backed by the latest dermatology research.
Are you a teen or an adult suffering from acne? We begin with the specific type of acne that affects teenagers, also known as physiologic acne. Most adult acne sufferers also start off having acne in their teen years, so understanding this process is crucial.
Physiologic acne
Those suffering from physiologic acne experience acne bumps over an area known as the T-zone. The T-zone encompasses the forehead and the nose-chin line, which is somewhat configured to the letter “T”. Physiologic acne has also been referred to as a form of hormonal acne, except that all acne is in fact hormonal in its origin.
During puberty there is a surge of the male hormone testosterone in both sexes. Testosterone results in increased oil gland activity. Oil glands are also known as sebaceous glands which produce sebum. In those who are genetically prone to acne, there is a receptor known as PPAR-y which is specific to acne itself. The surge in testosterone causes inflammation to develop. The process that leads to visible acne bumps looks something like this:
Microcomedones which are invisible to the naked eye form in the deeper layers of skin
Under the influence of increased oil production and genetically driven inflammatory processes, the microcomedones are driven to the skin surface
Visible whiteheads and blackheads appear, known collectively as comedones
Comedones get infected by surface bacteria, leading to the formation of red and inflamed bumps known as papules and cysts
Adult hormonal acne
Moving on to adult hormonal acne. Adult acne isn’t actually clearly defined in medical terms, but here’s a rough guide that can help you navigate if you are really suffering from adult acne:
You have never had acne before in your teen years and are experiencing it in your twenties or after
You’ve had acne as a teen and it has persisted beyond age 21
You have been diagnosed with polycystic ovarian disease (PCOS) and/or pending gynaecological investigations for irregular periods/fertility problems
Look no further, the best acne treatment for adults is found at Dr.TWL Pharmacy, Singapore’s specialist acne care pharmacy for your OTC acne treatment needs.
Dr.TWL Pharmacy: home to the best acne treatment for adults and teens alike
Why choose us? Dr.TWL Pharmacy’s acne treatments are based on dermatologist developed acne protocols that are designed to help persistent acne. Whether you have previously received prescription treatment or otherwise, our clinically-tested skincare routines and acne creams can help you get clear skin while staying oral medication-free.*
Who is this for?
If you are looking for a long-term maintenance over-the-counter treatment that does not involve oral medications
Those who have already been on acne treatment before and experienced recurrence
Have mild-moderate acne and want a more holistic approach to acne treatment with dermocosmetics/cosmeceuticals
Have experienced skin irritation with retinols/retinoids, have skin allergies to traditional acne creams like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide
*not a substitute for medical consults. You will be assessed for suitability for purely over-the-counter treatment during your initial assessment. Our protocols are compatible with prescription medications and can be used as an adjunct treatment.
Did you know? Teenagers suffer from a specific type of hormonal acne that is slightly different from adult acne. While both types of acne can be considered “hormonal” in nature, teenage acne can affect those without a family history of acne whereas adult acne is typically associated with a strong genetic predisposition.
Teenage acne encompasses a hormonal type acne, also known as physiologic acne because it is regarded as a normal symptom of your body’s changing physiology during puberty. The surge in testosterone causes increased oil gland activity in both males and females, resulting in an increase in skin oiliness which can accompany acne breakouts.
What is the best acne treatment?
There is really no one-size fits all acne treatment. This is why traditionally, dermatologists will first assess the patient to determine the type and severity of acne before recommending an acne treatment regime. The type of acne is determined by the presence of whiteheads/blackheads (aka comedones) or red bumps known as papules. The bigger, more inflamed types acne are referred to as cysts and usually point to a subtype of acne known as nodulocystic acne. Cystic acne is considered as the most severe of all and will usually require oral medication treatment.
Dr.TWL Pharmacy offers the LED light therapy system which is modelled after LED light therapy used in dermatology practices. It is suitable for treatment of all types of acne including moderate to severe cystic acne as an alternative to oral medications.
The best acne treatment delivered in cream form, without oral medications
During your consultation, you will be assessed for suitability to start on our best-selling acne care creams. Berberine has been proven to address the major underlying causes of acne in dermatology research: it has anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial (antibacterial) and even anti-oxidant and skin healing effects.
The problem with traditional acne creams and why they do not work after some time
Traditional acne creams are formulated based on the outdated understanding of acne—that it is due to bacteria alone. While C acnes (Cutibacterium acnes) has been identified as the causative bacteria for acne, it is not the only driving factor. In fact, the latest dermatology research shows that acne formation requires a synergy of different processes that drive inflammation.
For example, one must first be genetically predisposed to acne. If you have a family member with a history of acne, it is likely that you will also develop acne during puberty. Oil production then kickstarts the process of microcomedone formation. The genetically driven process of inflammation then drives the microcomedoes to the surface of skin. This process usually takes about 2-4 weeks, by the end of which a visible whitehead or blackhead appears.
Here is a list of reasons why acne creams stop working:
Antibiotic resistance
Antibiotic gels like clindamycin and erythromycin are often prescribed as spot treatment. However, it is also a well-known fact that the use of antibiotic gels and creams lead to bacterial resistance. This is dangerous for the body and also ineffective when it comes to acne treatments.
Does not address root causes of acne holistically
In order to fully treat acne at its root, one has to target all the underlying physiological processes involved in acne formation. For example, benzoyl peroxide a popular acne spot cream works as an astringent and by peeling the surface skin cells. This is problematic because while it dries out the pimple, the best spot acne creams must be designed to quickly reduce inflammation. Rather than just making skin dry. In fact, use of benzoyl peroxide is one of the reasons for the oily-dehydrated skin phenomenon which plagues acne sufferers.
Why choose Dr.TWL Pharmacy’s acne solutions: access the best acne treatment for sensitive skin
Your skin is unique. Our dermatologist designed acne treatment protocols offer botanical-based topical treatments that help to rebalance oily-dehydrated skin. The active ingredients help to stabilise the skin microbiome, balancing the entire skin ecosystem for long term maintainence and prevention. Unlike traditional acne therapy, there is minimal/zero risk of skin irritation. In addition, our formulations contain antioxidants that help to treat and prevent all types of acne scars. From the moment you apply our pimple cream, it gets to work to quickly reduce skin inflammation and prevents acne scarring.
Best acne treatment products: discover them all at Dr.TWL Pharmacy
The best acne treatment is one that holistically targets the root causes of acne. Traditional acne creams do not possess antioxidant properties and instead focuses on the outdated concept of “drying out” the pimple. For instance, benzoyl peroxide is an astringent and an antiseptic.
Based on the latest scientific models of acne, benzoyl peroxide would not be an effective acne treatment because it does not have anti-inflammatory effects that prevents formation of microcomedones. On the other hand, the blemish spot cream works to reduce inflammation quickly while promoting skin barrier healing instead of drying out skin. This means that skin recovers quickly, minimising scarring.
The silkpeel with medi-facial essences are modelled after in-clinic hydrodermabrasion and microdermabrasion technologies that are used to treat acne. At the pharmacy, our specialist dermatology nurse will advise you on the most suitable home-based hydrodermabrasion kit for your needs.
This impressive hydrodermabrasion set offers a countertop luxury skincare experience minus the footprint. The Universal Beauty Bar is an excellent alternative for expensive in-clinic medi-facials. Prevent recurrence of acne without oral medications with a holistic method combining anti-inflammatory botanicals, water-based vacuum exfoliation and antioxidants.
Looking for the best acne treatment for hormonal acne? Dr.TWL Pharmacy is Singapore’s first dermatologist-led custom-skincare pharmacy . We offer state-of-the-art skincare devices paired with custom formulations like mask peels and complete acne skincare routines. All acne care products are designed for all skin types including sensitive skin.
Best acne treatment for sensitive skin: LED light therapy
If you suffer from dry, irritated skin, acne treatment can be a nightmare. This is because traditional acne creams and even oral medications like isotretinoin dry skin out. Such an approach has even led to the oily-dehydrated skin phenomenon, which isn’t just uncomfortable—it harms the skin barrier. Tretinoin or adapalene are prescription retinoids that damage the skin barrier and are usually prescribed together with moisturiser therapy. While they are effective for the treatment and prevention of comedonal acne (i.e. whiteheads and blackheads), they worsen actively inflamed acne. This is also one of the key causes of skin purging.
CellTalk Cosmeceutical CC Cream: Serum foundation that is dermatologist-approved for all skin types including acne, rosacea, sensitive/dry Skin.
Did you know? Acne purging is not a must for those undergoing treatment. It is specifically related to use of retinoids, which drive the inflammatory process. While retinoids were previously regarded as the mainstay of topical acne treatment, it is no longer the case. Multiple botanical actives have been proven to have similar retinoid-like effects but without skin irritation i.e. bakuchiol, peptides etc. the added benefit is that these actives have a holistic effect on skin. Peptides have anti-microbial effects which helps to stabilise the skin microbiome, for instance.
Best acne treatment for oily skin
DID YOU KNOW?
If you find your acne-prone skin feeling even greasier after using certain products, this may be the reason why. Paradoxical hyperseborrhea is a condition in which the sebaceous glands work even harder to produce sebum/oil when there is a disruption in the skin microenvironment. Imagine your skin as an ecosystem in which different factors interact with one another in connected feedback loop to maintain balance.
When you use astringent products which promise to remove excess oil, what you are really doing is stripping the skin of moisture. Essentially, “degreasing” products don’t just remove excess oil—many of these products indiscriminately remove even protective oils on the skin’s surface. This eventually leads to a disrupted skin barrier, leaving your skin feeling dehydrated on the outside. That isn’t the end of the story though. Your skin then sends a message to oil glands—which then work overtime to produce more oil to compensate!
HERE’S WHAT TO DO INSTEAD
Choose gentle, dermatologist-recommended formulations which respect the skin barrier if you suffer from acne-prone skin. This may sound counterintuitive if you are used to astringent skincare designed to target oily skin, but hear me out. Healthy skin actually does a great job of regulating itself from the inside-out, if given a chance to. So if you have oily skin, you should choose a cleanser that fulfils the following criteria:
Gentle cleansing i.e. your skin should not feel squeaky clean after cleansing—that is usually a sign of “over cleansing”
Anti-microbial properties
Oily skin also tends to be acne-prone, which is why a cleanser with antibacterial effects is helpful. Where possible, natural emulsifiers like honey or soy should be incorporated, as opposed to chemical surfactants.
Anti-inflammatory effects
A little known fact about oily skin is that it is more prone to oxidative stress—potentiating the inflammatory processes that occur during acne formation. The ideal cleanser should incorporate anti-inflammatory botanicals—that can help reduce acne inflammation in the long run.
Acne: who gets it? What are the best acne treatment options available?
In this section, we go through the ideal acne treatments for the following groups:
teenage males
teenage girl
adult in 40s
The best acne treatment for teenage males may differ from that of an older adult female for example, simply because different factors are at work. In a teenage male, it is the surge in testosterone that is responsible for an increase in oil production, leading to an acne breakout.
The best acne treatment for teenage girls with mild physiologic acne may just be in the form of over-the-counter acne creams and a well-formulated acne skincare routine. For moderate/persistent acne, LED light therapy like blue light is helpful. Dr.TWL Pharmacy’s AURORA Light Therapy machine is modelled after in-clinic light therapy machines used for delivering blue light treatment for acne. Oral medications may be an option if topical treatments fail.
The best acne treatment for a 40 year old woman, on the other hand, will depend on whether she is suffering from polycystic ovarian disease (PCOS). This is a possible contributing cause of adult acne. The hormonal imbalances in PCOS result in acne that persists beyond teenage years—resulting in what is often regarded as “ adult hormonal acne”. In an older adult female, say one in her 40s, sudden onset acne may spell an underlying hormonal change—which warrants a gynaecological investigation for PCOS.
The best acne treatment for sensitive skin: dermatologist recommended
Our dermatologist-driven acne protocols are specially designed for sensitive skin with minimal/zero irritation products. Consult with our skin expert to find the best treatment options for your sensitive skin. Get in touch today by WhatsApp at +65 97286734.
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