Welcome back to “Skincare Deep Dive,” our brand new series on the acne podcast where we explore the science and soul of skincare. Today, we’re diving into a topic that affects millions: acne. But we’re not just talking about the usual creams and cleansers. We’re asking a bigger question: Is the future of acne treatment holistic? Is holistic acne treatment via functional dermatology the way to go?
What is Holistic Acne Treatment?
For years, the conventional approach to acne has often focused on treating the symptoms: reducing inflammation, killing bacteria, and unclogging pores. While these treatments can be effective for many, others find themselves in a frustrating cycle of breakouts, harsh chemicals, and temporary fixes. This is where the idea of holistic acne treatment, often championed by functional dermatology, comes into play. So, what exactly is functional dermatology?
Well, think of it as a more comprehensive and personalized approach to skin health—in conventional definitions, functional medicine aims to identify and address the root causes of human disease, and in the case of dermatology, we are talking about skin issues like acne. They look beyond the spot itself and consider the interconnectedness of the body’s systems.
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When it comes to functional dermatology, it’s not so well-defined in the scientific literature—fundamentally we already have some knowledge about how hormones and the gut microbiome influence skin conditions like acne. But as to whether dietary modifications alone can treat acne, the answer is no. However, the evidence possibly points towards a synergistic role in terms of how lifestyle factors can improve the efficacy of acne management and in terms of overall skin health.
What I am going to focus on is functional dermatology as a holistic approach rather than a boxed-in term. That means, we’re going to regard the skin as a whole, building on the current body of research that points towards the skin as an ecosystem. We’re talking about the skin microclimate, the integrity of the skin barrier, but most specifically when it comes to acne, it’s the microbiome.
Instead of solely focusing on say sebum control, which is the way medications like isotretinoin work, we’re looking at the interplay of factors such as surface hydration which can indirectly affect oil gland activity. For instance a condition known as reactive hyperseborrhea occurs when oily skin is subject to astringent cleansers which dehydrate the skin’s surface. This is why dermatologists always recommend a gentle cleanser for universal skin types, oily skin included. Very often those who suffer from oily-dehydrated skin have been exposed to astringent cleansers and toners which deplete and even damage the skin barrier over time.
Those with dry skin, such as eczema, could also develop acne especially in the teenage years. And because eczema is a genetically determined condition whereby the skin barrier is deficient, it is pertinent to know how to manage acne in such cases. The typical approach of using astringent skincare, even medications like oral isotretinoin would very likely induce a flareup of eczema. In such cases, it is useful to incorporate gentler alternatives such as anti-inflammatory botanical actives which target the root cause of acne holistically. In this episode, I’ll begin by diving right into the causes of acne.
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What are the Causes of Acne?
Acne is one of the most common skin disorders in the world that affects all age and ethnic groups. To illustrate, key pathogenic factors such as the proliferation and colonization of the bacteria P. acnes, increased sebum production and inflammatory mechanisms can all lead to the development of acne. Additionally, factors like genetic history and diet also play significant roles in acne development.
From a functional dermatology perspective, acne isn’t just a skin problem; it’s often a sign that something else is imbalanced within the body. This could involve gut health, hormonal fluctuations, stress levels, inflammation, dietary sensitivities, or even environmental factors. That’s where a truly effective acne treatment plan needs to consider the individual as a whole, i.e. for holistic acne treatment.
Most importantly, functional dermatology doesn’t necessarily dismiss conventional treatments. In many cases, a combination of both approaches can be the most effective. A topical retinoid might still be used to unclog pores, while dietary changes work to reduce overall inflammation from the inside out.
Holistic Acne Treatment via Functional Dermatology
So, what might a holistic acne treatment plan look like in practice? It could involve dietary changes, like reducing processed foods, sugar, and dairy, which are known to be inflammatory for some individuals. It might include targeted supplements to support gut health, balance hormones, or address specific nutrient deficiencies. Stress management techniques like mindfulness or yoga could also be incorporated.
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It’s about finding the right balance for each individual. We might use conventional therapies to address acute breakouts while simultaneously working on the underlying factors to prevent future flares. The goal is long-term skin health, not just a quick fix. Now, it’s important to acknowledge that the field of functional dermatology is still evolving. While there’s growing evidence supporting the link between gut health, diet, and skin conditions, more rigorous research is needed in some areas. It’s also crucial to seek guidance from qualified healthcare professionals who have training in both dermatology and functional medicine principles.
So, is functional dermatology the way to go for holistic acne treatment? It certainly offers a compelling alternative for those who haven’t found lasting relief with conventional methods. By addressing the root causes and taking a personalized, holistic approach, it empowers individuals to take control of their skin health from the inside out.
If you’re struggling with persistent acne and are curious about a more holistic approach, consider researching functional dermatologists in your area. Have an open conversation with your current dermatologist about your interest in exploring these options for holistic acne treatment. Remember, healthy skin is a reflection of overall well-being.
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That’s all the time we have for today’s episode. Thank you for joining us. We’ll be back with another insightful discussion on the world of acne and skincare.
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Skincare Masterclass Series By Dr.TWL® — EP 1:SKINCARE BUILDER CHECKLIST
What are the steps in an ideal skincare regimen? What function does skin cleansing serve? Is double-cleansing necessary even on makeup-free days? We’ll shed some light on skincare steps this episode, including my top tips for a minimalist skincare regimen– including K-beauty hacks, the dermatologist way.
This series is brought to you in partnership with Dr.TWL Pharmacy–your one stop beauty pharmacy for dermatologist-recommended beauty finds.
SKINCARE MASTERCLASS BY DERMATOLOGIST DR.TWL® FREE ACCESS FOR LIMITED TIME
Hello you all! I have some great news to share—we’ll be starting a brand new series of skincare masterclasses on this podcast, with complimentary downloadable lecture notes for each session too! I’m excited about this series which will have me sharing on a variety of skincare and dermatology related topics such as cleansing, exfoliation, peels, pigmentation, acne and many more topics!
Skincare masterclass by Dr.TWL aims to provide the highest level of scientific education in clinical skincare. Conducted by international beauty expert and board-certified dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin, this series of skincare masterclasses is designed for all levels. For a limited time, get your free download to the podcast and lecture notes (password protected).
Today’s episode represents the very first in this series and we’ll be beginning with the science of building a skincare regimen. I want to set the record straight for all of you beauty enthusiasts— once and for all…There is no need to have a skincare regimen specifically tailored to your skin concern — this is a marketing fad.
Dermatologists usually recommend a universal skincare regimen for those with problem skin. This means that the products used are suitable for all skin types and skin concerns. Most importantly, dermatologist-recommended skincare products are suitable even for those with sensitive skin types. I’ve also come up with a template for you all which can be used in the context of your preferred skincare brands.
Why choose to learn from Dr.TWL?
Dr Teo Wan Lin is the author of top-rated skincare book on Amazon the Skincare Bible—Dermatologist Guide to Cosmeceutical Skincare as well as Asian Beauty Secrets—Guide to Korean Skin Cycling. She is trusted as an international beauty KOL who has conducted masterclasses for the top beauty brands worldwide. Her beauty podcast Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty features prominently in the beauty podcast media space. The podcast has collaborated with Amore-Pacific, L’Oreal Paris, LVMH on product launches. Other beauty brands that have engaged Dr TWL for skincare masterclasses include Laneige, FOREO Sweden, Philosophy, Eucerin International, to name a few.
Beginning with skin cleansing — we’re familiar with Double Cleansing which is a 2-step method of skin cleansing especially important for those who wear makeup. To clarify, the first cleanser is usually referred to as a milk or an oil cleanser— though they usually refer to the same thing. Milk cleansers look milky but they are actually oil-based. The concept here is that an oil soluble base is necessary in order to dissolve makeup pigments and even sunscreen. Hence the typical lathering cleanser alone is insufficient. Micellar cleansers are also effective as makeup removers— although it tends to be rather drying, which is probably not so kind to sensitive skin types
The second step of cleansing uses either an SLS- based or an amino-acid based surfactant which helps to physically emulsify all the dirt and grime which is then rinsed off with water. Using gentle surfactants in place of SLS is always recommended—for instance at the pharmacy we use the Honey Cleanser which is a lathering foaming face wash that utilises medical grade honey as a surfactant. Soy is also an effective natural emulsifier.
In this skincare masterclass produced in partnership with international beauty leader in sonic cleansing technology FOREO, Dr TWL shares the benefits of sonic cleansing for removing particulate matter known as PM 2.5.
Is double cleansing necessary?
A common question asked is if double cleansing is necessary only for those who wear makeup—so what about makeup free days? Well, in my opinion the best practice is really to do both steps—mainly because most sunscreen formulas are oil-soluble. Cleansing is also important to ensure absorption of skincare—so you should pay special attention to this step!
In this series of skincare masterclasses produced in collaboration with her podcast arm— she goes through in detail all aspects on skincare based off the SKINCARE CHECKLIST (available for download). The goal of this masterclass is to educate participants on the science behind each skincare step, including cleansing, use of toner lotions, types of serums, moisturiser textures as well as more advanced skincare treatments that can be performed at home. Alternative peels based on papain or bromelain fruit enzymes are discussed, as are traditional methods of chemical and physical exfoliation.
The case forreusable makeup remover pads
I have another tip here. Reusable makeup remover pads are a helpful addition to your cleansing regimen! Hear me out. Firstly, who uses wipes anymore? I personally found these wipes highly irritating to skin—and not just sensitive skin types. Not just any pad will do though—in this case I highly recommend choosing one that attracts makeup particles—similar to how micellar cleansers work. Except, this time it cleanses with just water activation alone which is even more perfect for sensitive skin.
In general, we recommend these wipes for use together with the milk cleanser in the first step of double cleansing as an effective method of removing residual physical debris and also for gentle daily skin exfoliation.
Discover the best of Asian beauty in this book hot off the press by Dr. Teo Wan Lin. Hear from the chief scientific officer of Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, one of Asia’s prominent clinical skincare brands headquartered in Korea and Singapore. She details the key differences in K-beauty formulations which she also shares in this series of skincare masterclasses.
Toner-Moisturizer-Lotion
Now moving on quickly, what comes next is pretty intuitive. This is what I call the Toner-Moisturiser-Lotion step. Well here’s an insider tip: K-beauty formulations combine the two steps— namely the toner and moisturiser. This minimalist approach works especially well for those who live in humid climates or have combination/oily skin. A note of caution here for those with sensitive/reactive skin— avoid AHA/BHA i.e. glycolic acid, salicylic acid! It can lead to a condition known as irritant contact dermatitis which is most similar to a form of chemical burn. Some helpful principles when choosing a toner/lotion would be to look for humectants such as hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, glycerin; antioxidants — usually plant based).
Watch Dr TWL’s series of mini skincare masterclasses (bite sized, under 5 mins on her Tik Tok account).
Serums
We’re nearing the end so stay with me for a moment. Now I’m sure you are as passionate about serums as I am but don’t you ever wonder if the many serums we use are actually excessive? Well what I want to highlight here is what I would consider a framework which everyone can build upon—not just for those interested in 10 step skin rituals.
So what serums are really necessary? Well, in my opinion, if I were to use 1 serum—I’d choose a vitamin C serum. But ideally, I would use 2– I’ll definitely add on a hyaluronic acid serum for sure—because it is one of the most readily absorbed molecules that also has an instant plumping and lifting effect!
@drtwlderma COMING SOON •THE TRUTH ABOUT VITAMIN C• We are excited to share the launch of the Skincare Masterclass Series By Dr.TWL® –a collection of audio/video workshops designed for skincare lovers like you! FIRST 100 sign-ups get FREE access to our masterclass series (more to come!) Www.drtwlderma.com #vitamincserum#serumviraltiktok#bestserumsforglowingskin♬ Price Tag – Jessie J
Moisturizers
Finally, we’ll talk about moisturisers. If you have combination/oily skin-use a lotion which is sometimes also marketed as an emulsion . This is a lightweight type of moisturiser that doesn’t appear too greasy, and goes well under makeup. Now of course if your skin is especially dry—you may use a cream formula instead.
We shouldn’t forget about sunscreen—why does sunscreen pill? If you have experienced this before—well, me too. I’ve dedicated an entire podcast episode to that on Hot & Sweaty Beauty, my other podcast which focuses on battling tropical skin problem—so do check it out if you suffer from sunscreen pilling too!
We have a printable skincare routine checklist for you which you can also download for free at the link I’ve included in the description.
This podcast series is brought to you in partnership with Dr.TWL Pharmacy–your one stop beauty pharmacy for dermatologist-recommended beauty finds.
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Pigmentation/Radiance MAR 2023 EP1 (NEW RELEASE)
Cleansing
Exfoliation
Masking
Moisturiser
Acne
Skin Sensitivity/Dry Skin
Skin Allergies
Moisturisers
Facial Mists
Sunscreen 101
Serums
Masking Better
Add on option: Facial Mists (Freshening/touch-up makeup; on-the-go skin hydration)
Weekly Treatment: Peels (Enzyme-based options like papain and bromelain are gentler on skin); Gel masking for combination/oily skin; Sheet masking for dry/sensitive skin.
If you need more recommendations, you can simply reach out to my team at Dr.TWL Pharmacy by WhatsApp! We ship internationally too. Need more assistance?
2023 SKINCARE MASTERCLASS RELEASE- SIGN UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER TO RECEIVE EXCLUSIVE ACCESS!
Pigmentation/Radiance MAR 2023 EP1 (NEW RELEASE)
Cleansing
Exfoliation
Masking
Moisturiser
Acne
Skin Sensitivity/Dry Skin
Skin Allergies
Moisturisers
Facial Mists
Sunscreen 101
Serums
Masking Better
Targeted Skincare Treatment
The following are a list of herbal formulations backed by modern scientific research that show potential as treatment options for hyperpigmentation. Many of these extracts are not readily found in cosmetic formulations as they are derived from traditional eastern medicine. A selection of these ingredients is available by custom compounded order at Dr.TWL Pharmacy (www.drtwlderma.com).
Searching for the best beauty podcast? We would love to introduce 5 of our favorite shows hosted by none other than our dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin, also known as Dr.TWL. Scroll on for a quick review of what to expect!
If you have been living under a rock, then you may need a bit of introduction to the idea of beauty podcasts. Which we are happy to share here since there are truly so many benefits to subscribing to podcasts as a form of edu-tainment. Edu-what?
Edutainment is a blend of the words education and entertainment. So these days, the media trend is towards not just entertaining, but also educating the audience. Podcast media is one of the best to get edutained! How do you choose the best beauty podcast for your needs?
Why should I listen to a beauty podcast?
Similarly to choosing your favourite beauty magazine, which if you grew up in the 90s or earlier, was the only way you accessed the top beauty trends around the world. With the proliferation of the internet in the last decade, information dissemination is a lot more equitable. The speed and quantity which content is generated then becomes the key factor in determining the value of the media outlet. Besides fresh content, we also appreciate quality over quantity. So we guarantee that these beauty podcasts produced in collaboration with the TWL Publishing arm meet these criteria!
Beauty Podcast to listen to get smart & philosophical
#1 Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty
By Dr. Teo Wan Lin
A beauty podcast for the intellectual beauty in you. You may have heard of the term intelligent beauty being used to market aesthetic procedures and cosmetic dermatology. However, there is an alternative interpretation, according to Dr. TWL, the host of Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty. Intelligent beauty referring to how your brain can literally be the best tool to transform your into the beauty you were meant to be. A podcast about neuroaesthetics, the science of how the brain perceives beauty, especially on the topic of art influencing our aesthetic experiences. The role of memory, imagination and even play, in the realm of aesthetics.
Why you will love this beauty podcast
This podcast is truly one of its kind- tackling the topic of the science of beauty from a novel angle, inspiring all of us with its health-centric perspectives as opposed to voices that merely echo consumerist sentiments. It also earns a spot as a favorite on Spotify’s featured beauty podcasts, another reason to follow this!
Best Beauty Podcast for edutainment
#2 Girls With Long Hair, Need Hair Elastics
By Dr. Teo Wan Lin & Dr.TWL Pharmacy
Girls with long hair is the beauty podcast to get entertained and educated at the same time. Join Dr TWL on a quirky journey recounting her days as a model and her beauty struggles. Mostly revolving around her hair. Expect haircare tips and heartfelt confessions about her hair obsessions along with satire and hopefully some helpful life lessons. Want a podcast that’s both funny and educational? Girls With Long Hairis a beauty show like no other hosted by Dr. Teo Wan Lin, also known as Dr.TWL, board certified dermatologist from Singapore and international beauty KOL that has collaborated with top brands like Dior Beauty, Laneige, Skinceuticals and Eucerin.
Why this podcast will entertain, comfort and inspire you
If you enjoy listening to stories, this podcast will tick the boxes for you. Told in a casual manner with quirky weird background music, it is a show designed to entertain but also to put a light hearted spin on beauty woes that trouble all girls. Does being born a woman come with the curse of beauty? Is beauty a curse or a blessing? More reflections and insights told in a comedic setting by Dr.TWL.
Enter the Surreal Garden of Dreams with Dr.TWL in this podcast dedicated to the art of beauty sleep. A companion audio guide to the adult bedtime coloring book Secret Garden of Dreams. Experience surreal beauty & flowers in your dreams for a night of beauty sleep.
Why the only podcast on beauty sleep is the beauty podcast you must follow
Pretty self explanatory, no? In any case this novel approach to beauty is a followup to Dr Teo’s research in the brain skin connection and its relevance to beauty. Exploring the realm of the imagination via dreams is a reflex adopted by the hippocampus, to consolidate memories and to keep our minds healthy. Research also shows that a well rested individual is likely to be perceived as more attractive to others, besides what we already know about our skin cells regenerating while we sleep.
Beauty Podcast about Asian beauty for skincare lovers
Fun fact, the beauty podcast cover image is a Chinese painting by Dr.TWL herself, of her pet canary Guinness. Aptly subtitled “little bird whispers”, this beauty podcast promises to spill the beans on the best kept Asian beauty secrets. Beginning with how harnessing plant intelligence is the key to retinol-free cosmeceuticals, the podcast offers bonus tips on how to recreate Korean glass skin with the help of DIY home medifacial hacks.
What is different about this beauty podcast?
To our knowledge, this is the only Asian beauty podcast hosted by a board certified dermatologist specifically addressing the latest TikTok trend of skin cycling with regards to retinol/retinoid based skincare regimens. Dr. Teo expounds on how plant biology offers insights into the aging skin exposome, a unique perspective backed up by her personal research in ethnobotany.
A Beauty Podcast on acne for teenage and adult hormonal acne
#5 The Acne Podcast
By Dr. Teo Wan Lin & Dr.TWL Pharmacy
If you are familiar with the Acne Care Bible by Dr Teo Wan Lin, this podcast is the ideal companion to your acne encyclopedia collection. Acne is one of the commonest dermatological conditions but it is also by no means the simplest to tackle. Besides, the immense psychosocial impact of acne is well known- affecting self esteem and causing psychological issues like depression and anxiety. The podcast features discussions on skincare for acne sufferers, especially with regards to options apart from oral medications.
What does this beauty podcast offer?
An in-depth review on the who, what, when, where and how of acne, by a board certified dermatologist who also happens to be the chief scientific officer of a well known skincare brand Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals. Get an insider look into the business of skincare for acne, as well as dermatologist tips on how to tackle blemishes at home.
All these beauty podcasts are available on Spotify, Apple and Google Podcasts.You may follow Dr Teo Wan Lin on her Instagram @drteowanlin to stay updated on the latest in her work in beauty.